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For the timbers you've chosen to work with, the suggestion seems to have suited you. I'm sure like within many occupations, there's plenty haven't had the same outcome as yourself, take smoking for instance.

More reason to get the cap iron working on the no.5 then. Charlesworth's planing tips regarding stopped shavings and the importance of the edges, paired with advice from those who actually use the cap iron, will make sure it's not something akin to walking up an escalator which is going down.

Aye, sanding is a solution if it suits, and you're either tooled up with an honest Pentz design type/spec cyclone, or closer to it than the consumer stuff at the upper tier you can buy, which is say somewhere in-between, and/or wearing powered respirators, or otherwise completely willing to take...

Sorry, can't give advice regarding your options. I've still got my L-N 60 1/2, which may be similar in ways, it's basically unused yet, but I'm keeping it for end grain use, mainly shooting bindings and things teeeny, or for larger things too awkward for a no.3, but not for smoothing. Perhaps...

I'm taking a gamble I know exactly why, being not so mobile in last month or two. Your term "category" could be swapped into a more fitting sentence, as it does come across as pigeon holing someone. My reply today, (mainly the section you quoted) sums it up, which I felt was apt regarding some...

Hi again, I figured from your last comment, you only had this in a cart and not followed through yet. Suppose you made your choice, unless you are a stones throw away from whatever shop you got it, and bought a floor model on such a condition . I wouldn't expect a business to take such returns...

Hello, you may suppose I'm simply a premium tool hater, not so, I've got a LN on my mantle. Stay away from folks who advice use of such scraping techniques for flat timber, or you just might buy a load of extra things you don't need, That could get quite expensive comparing scrapers or...

I'm wondering the same, and from what I've read regarding bandsaw tires, I'd doubt it. Bar urethane, and cork/rubber composites, seemingly there's only one real vulcanized rubber, and everything else is a plastic of sorts in various properties. Not looked it up, but perhaps Record Power might...

Buy a metal detector device like a lumberwizard or security wand, if you don't have one already. Good chance a nail, screw or staple may be embedded in the scrap box, much of which is likely destined for testing.

From what I've seen some folk can manage resawing with finer teeth than others, even with an old blade. That's a 3 TPI blade on that grizzly with the powerfeed. The blade isn't liking it, but it's working well none the less. Pretty much against the advice of what you might expect.

Not if you hold it up, it won't curl. It's the best sign of things working as they should and in my opinion in what any newcomer should be looking for, no pretending or tricks, just the double iron plane doing what it were designed for. I can assure you I'm not using the missus clothes iron to...

I call that a straight shaving, as one would with any shaving coming out of the mouth like such, be it thick or thin, the cap iron plays a role for my panel/fine set jack plane also. Can post a picture of crinkly and waxy shavings aswell, the shavings beforehand. It still comes out of the plane...

Good to know for other folks planes that those ones fit. Is the hole larger in the Juuma planes, or is it that the pin is just needing to be flared a bit, after the mushroom were possibly filed off? Did you try tapping from both directions when you were removing it? Tom

And I've never needed to de-rust mine, as they are made from stainless. :)

That Draper one seems to be made of pressed sheet steel, compared to the milled component which looks a lot more durable and sureworthy to me. I will mention the little stop at the end did come loose, and a little machine screw disappeared,(only found the workzone cheapie in the house...

I like these types of verniers, great if planing long stock up up, should you be laminating timbers. No reading, just pinch and lock. (with the single locking screw, the dual screwed ones are an annoyance) Also nicer if they come to a sharp point, compared to some stubby ones with blunt/steep...

Slightly OT, but just wanted to mention something handy. If staining or using a concoction of sorts on double doors... Then divide the solution, having one pot for each door. DAMHIK :)

Cosman half shows this, but not enough to make it apparent that one could disregard the fancy steel and uber fancy expensive honing system to match. Yes, I use the cap iron, if that's what you're asking.

IMO, you don't have a preference if you haven't used the cap iron. It will be necessary unless you've got seriously good kit, spiral cutterhead, and whatever else. Just buy any good looking one which has good pics, which is 20 quid for a no.4 plane. If even your intention is to get premium...

Fair enough if you have say a planer bed, or other suitable surface. Otherwise (on the cheap) one can use float glass, (difficult to get thick sheets of any glass, so are bendy, even fridge shelves) and flat timber, properly flat not pretending. As one who's learning to use a plane, will...