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I'm not sure why this tangent has gone on so long. Files are more brittle by their nature and are more prone to fracture than HSS. If you want to take your own risks, that's your position. This was originally brought up as a safety warning, just leave it at that. Just because you didn't get...

The edge banding is sacrificial, I screw mine in place for replacement if necessary. If you use some type of floating tenon I wouldn't glue it, just use it for alignment/strength, then screw. Once you glue it on, it becomes more or less permanent. just suggestions, it's your choice

Torrified wood (thermally modified) is brittle, I wouldn't use it as edge banding/protection. That's just me. I have used DF and Birch for banding around MDF tops and it's just fine, movement is minimal.

https://segmentedwoodturners.org/forums/index.php Segmented turning can be as simple or as complex as you want it to be, from simple laminations, bowl from a board, to intricate designs and feature rings. One benefit is size, buying solid blanks is expensive, with segmenting you can easily build...

Self taught, no hands on teaching. I did watch a few videos before YouTube took off. I did have a foundation in woodworking prior to turning so things like grain direction and orientation, tool presentation, etc, took little time to absorb. low res photo

This is just not true The tool has the ability to drive a 3" nail through wood and concrete and thats the little one with a .22 cartridge. They also made ones with .38 and .44 cartridges. Not the same at all as a starter pistol. If it's not good as a tool anymore and you think it dangerous, take...

You do realize that Altendorf has been refining this type of safety feature for several years.

“Iron rusts from disuse, stagnant water loses its purity, and in cold weather becomes frozen; even so does inaction sap the vigors of the mind.” ― Leonardo DaVinci

I agree I also use stubby bits often.

People usually prefer something that is "handmade" over a machine produced item. Many can apprecuate the skill that went into the making of an item, others like the fact that it's unique, as it was not mass produced.

Well I suppose I'm not used to these types of jaws being used in a woodturning setting. Form the Axminster site. "These stepped jaws are similar in design to engineer’s chuck jaws." Sorry for the incorrect identification. Still, not the proper jaws to hold a dowel/rod in the orientation the OP...

It can certainly be done on a wood lathe if necessary but the photos in the OP are of a metal lathe chuck and jaws. On a wood lathe, I would make a set of accessory jaws from wood that would securely hold the dowel rod in the same manner as in the first photo. Turning at low RPM's, while slowly...

There are dozens of V-block drilling guides that woud be easier and safer, (possibly more accurate) than chucking up a rod in a chuck, not meant to handle such things. A couple of dollars/pounds is well worth it. IMO

I like the chip mat, thanks for sharing. I have used statistically placed rare earth magnets to catch metal debris. I know this doesn't work for all metals, but some varieties of Stainless are slightly magnetic. For brass, copper, aluminim etc. I think the mat is the best solution to capture the...

"handmade" hasn't been a literally accurate term for hundreds of years. Back in the 1800;s, do you think they were sitting around the pub saying things like, "your planks were cut by a water powered mill, that's not made by hand" The truth is, is that it's just a catch-phrase and a moving...

This may help you decide. https://www.finewoodworking.com/2019/08/08/workshop-tip-guide-pin-lets-you-bandsaw-and-rout-curves-with-the-same-jig

Live center adapter and chuck the tailstock end. This is just an example

With thin inlay pieces, there is no need to keep the grain running in the same direction. At the 7mm and under thickness, any wood movement is minimal at best and their isn't enough force to create joint failure. Nothing more than a thick veneer

I have a floor standing mortiser, the benchtop models IMO, might have enough power to drill and chisel but the vise and/or holding mechanism is never very robust, plus no x/y table on most of them. I think they're more trouble than they're worth.

I thought that was obvious, apologies. The substrate is typically thicker than the inlay. The point of inlay is for aesthetics, you can't simply turn a piece over just for grain orientation you think is less likely to cup. Use the appropriate thickness of substrate/inlay and you don't need to...