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I assume you mean scoring saw rather than scribing saw. Generally, such saws have neither use nor relevance in dimensioning solid wood. Scoring saws come into their own with board materials, especially those covered in delicate show surfaces such as veneer and melamine, their purpose being to...

Making a change to the clamps at this stage would also be an opportunity to get rid of the exposed domino you showed. Assuming it is just at one edge where the mistake shows you could rip off all or some the board at the edge and replace it. If both edges are affected, do both. Slainte.

The c channel is irrelevant to the less than optimal construction of the end clamps, unless you're attaching those c channels in a manner that also prevents cross grain movement, e.g., putting all screws through holes 0.5 mm or so larger than the screw's shank rather than slots in the channel...

My only commentary, apart from commiserations concerning the exposed domino, relates to the clamped ends or clamps, or as you call them, breadboard ends. I don't see a problem using domino dowels for the job, so long as they're large ones, e.g., 14 mm thick (which I believe is a standard size)...

You're right, those three pieces are rift sawn, i.e., the growth rings hit the faces and edges at approximately 45º, and the face and edge grain show as parallel lines. Rift sawn oak, which is the wood pictured in the opening post, shows little or no evidence of the medullary rays on the faces...

Danish oil is not simply diluted linseed oil, and/or (perhaps) diluted tung oil. Danish oil, and similar oils, such as teak oil all include an oil such as boiled linseed oil and/or tung oil, a resin, e.g., alkyd, and a solvent (white spirit). There are usually, or perhaps always, other...

I suspect you're over thinking the 'problem'. Wiping varnish is, basically, an ordinary oil or spirit varnish that's been thinned with white spirits to the point where it's easy to manipulate with a rag. It's just that in North America manufacturers are happy to do this in a factory and sell...

I barely recognise that old fart spouting off about his book. Oh, wait a moment, I think it was me. Thanks for posting that link. Slainte.

Jacob, I do agree with you regarding the use of two push-sticks. I said that in my earlier post. I don't think there's anything weird about the HSE's drawing of a push-stick; all the ones I've used are of much the same pattern. There's many a saw manufactured that doesn't attach the crown guard...

True, but there are good to excellent suggestions towards safe work practices outlined in the guidance. Amateur woodworkers have much to gain from learning how to operate machinery as safely as possible and the HSE can help, so why ignore it, if that's what you're suggesting. Slainte.

I'm sorry to hear of your accident. I also have the tips of two fingers missing on my right hand. My accident happened when I was only eight years old, and it was nothing to do with woodworking the accident being with an agricultural machine: it did, however, teach me to respect all kinds of...

I'm a bit surprised the owner of the lumber yard suggested red oak, and sent you off with it, because it's classed as non-durable in ground contact. In other words, it's not a great material for exterior use. It wouldn't be my choice, anyway and if I was going to use oak I'd have selected a...

Maple and exterior use is not a good combination. Maples are non-durable* and quickly develop black staining and mould on the surface. A finish will help but once the protective qualities fail and water gets to the wood discoloration happens quickly. I'm not saying you shouldn't use maple for...

If the chippy supplied the doors as well as installing them I'd say there's nothing more you need to do except contact him to get him to make good, i.e., new doors and install correctly, at his cost, not yours. If you bought the doors and he installed them, the remedy I suggested above still...

Given that the hardboard seems to have only become stuck here and there as a consequence of, how can I say, uhm, delicately, careless assembly, then do as niall Y has suggested and go at it with a chisel and mallet. I get the reason now that the hardboard becoming stuck was unintentional; it had...

I'm kind of wondering how you've got into a situation where you need to remove the hardboard backer after putting whatever this is you've made together. What's going through my mind is why include the hardboard in the first place if you didn't, in the end, want it, but nonetheless, there it is...

It's worth bearing in mind that the methodology sanctioned by UK government legislation* (see links below) for calculating biomass moisture content (MC) is use of the 'Wet Basis' (WB) rather than the 'Dry Basis' (DB). The latter Dry Basis methodology is the one woodworkers use for assessing wood...

The trunk looks rather distorted and may have a certain amount of reaction wood in it. This could possibly make it challenging to get usable boards, but I'd get the advice of an experienced miller before making a decision. I suspect rescuing parts for turning and carving might be the best uses...

Mitring the corners where the groove would show wouldn't stop you making the end of the pins and tails proud: there wouldn't be either a tail or a pin in the same place as the groove. Slainte.

I wouldn't. Mitre the corners to hide the groove, see below. If you don't do that you have to either make a little infill piece to fill the groove where it shows on one face, or modify the cutting of the joint to incorporate a small pin or peg to fill the groove. Slainte.