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White spirits is, emphatically, not the solvent to use with shellac - it doesn't mix with it, and it won't dissolve it when the shellac is dry, so I'm puzzled that mention has been made of white spirit in this thread. Industrial alcohol (meths) is the solvent/diluent for shellac, and it will...

Clearly explained. Excellent information. I think I may have spotted a small error as follows that you can probably edit to correct, see your original above: Workshop: 11 DB / 9 WB (11/9) rather than 9 DB. Slainte.

Bacon, eggs, grilled mushrooms, white bread toasted, jam, and a large G&T pick-me-up ... or three? Slainte.

Many thanks for the response, and thanks also for deciding to buy. I do hope you find the book useful to your woodworking endeavours. Generally, I'd say the book is one most people dip into as information is needed, although I have heard of some people that started at the beginning and read...

I truly appreciate your ringing endorsement, Droogs, but I actually somewhat disagree with your assertion that my book should be the first book on any aspiring woodworker's list. Not all aspiring woodworker's develop a real passion or long lasting interest in the knowledge, skills and...

Tongue 9 -10 mm long by 6 -8 mm thick. Cut groove to match, i.e., 9 - 10 mm deep by 6 - 8 mm wide, but loose enough for the button tongue to slide in easily. Set groove in the rail ~0.25 - 0.5 mm further in from rail's top edge than the button's thickness, i.e., if the button is 20 mm thick, set...

No. It's a bit on the low side, even for winter readings, which are typically somewhere between about 40-45% RH to about 50%+ RH. Summer readings in most houses tends to hover somewhere either side of about 65% RH. Slainte.

All Lost Art Press books are available from their UK retailer here, Classic Hand Tools (Lost Art Press). This would save you ordering directly from the USA, and might save some postage too. If it's PDF only versions of their books you want, I think you do have to go directly to the Lost Art...

The feedback is much appreciated, and I imagine mrpercysnodgrass will feel the same if he sees your message. Thank you, and you seem to have achieved a satisfactory result. Well done. Slainte.

24 mm in my case the last time I had to do this. In that instance, and because it was for two top drawers in a six drawer cabinet, i.e., four full width drawers and two top half width drawers I just glued together two small bits of 12 mm plywood, that were jointed into the hidden rail above the...

I'm not sure of the order you worked, but it looks like you prepped the wood surface, then filled the holes, and then dyed, then applied oil. It's also possible you bored and filled the holes, then prepped the whole surface, including the filled holes, then dyed and polished. The result is as...

So, I found I could get motivated enough to finish the doodle. Total time about an hour in front of an A4 sketch pad, then about five minutes in Photoshop to scan, resize, sharpen, and adjust levels a bit, and save with the following end result. Not perfect, and I know I could have done a...

I'd say you've definitely got your eye in. Very good indeed. Slainte.

Cheery logs It's not often I come across happy wood, but it's always nice to come across a piece that comes at you smiling, ha, ha. Slainte.

I've no idea of the horsepower of the saw, apart from what you say it is. The blade shown isn't ideal for ripping (combination maybe?), but not necessarily the worst I've seen, such as a HATB X cut blade with 60 - 80 teeth. I've seen saws bog down worse than that, but a dedicated rip blade would...

Hi Brian, the glass was included in the drawing as a material. In the Fusion 360 library of materials it is illustrated as having something of a blue cast, so I thought it would be more evident when rendered. It isn't because it simply appears as if it's not there. I've rendered again, but this...

Reviving this old thread to show more adventures in Fusion 360 is prompted by some of my learning and an observation or two on my part. The ability to create pretty good perspective drawings in the programme is quite impressive. Set against that is the time it takes to create the basic drawing...

I suspect mrpercysnodgrass might be right in identifying the existing yellowed and crumbled finish as a sprayed nitrocellulose. It might slightly possibly be a shellac based finish, i.e., a spirit varnish, but I don't think so. You could check for finish type by generously applying industrial...

It could be hard to get a good match if you're only finishing one side. I'm assuming the two sides are separate panels, and maybe there's also a top panel that links the sides, as well as a base. It might just be easier to strip the finish off all the show faces and then you can use the same...

It was addressed to me, just to clear that up. Slainte.