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Hmm, that's a rather open ended question. Am I right in thinking from the examples you found interesting that you like stuff that gives the erroneous impression that it's somewhat unstable, i.e., one cantilevered Vertigo, and one Valentino pointy triangle apparently resting on something that...

Yes, the glue joint has failed as can be seen in the photographs used to illustrate the problems described in the original post. Failure at the glue line is almost inevitable in a long glue up like that because gluing end grain to long grain results in a relatively weak joint that can't resist...

Level off the damaged area if required and cover the whole lot with another sheet of stainless steel, maybe including folded returns to also cover the wood edging? Slainte.

Hmm? Unfortunately you've incorporated the basic errors of using wood that was relatively wet to start with, and then made the situation worse by creating a locked cross-grain construction through adding screwed on end clamps, sometimes known as a breadboards. End clamps have to be attached to...

No, I can't say I've ever tried to properly comprehend the in-depth chemical differences between plain old PVA adhesive and aliphatic resin formulations. My excuse is that the nuances of advanced chemistry isn't my bag and I've no real motivation to get into it; I'm more than happy to leave all...

Franklin International in guidance on this topic on their PVA/aliphatic resin adhesives recommend a cramping pressure of 100 lbs per square inch for softwoods and up to 250 lbs per square inch for hardwoods. So, for example when edge gluing solid wood panels set a sash cramp roughly 50 mm in...

It depends on the circumstances, doesn't it? I've worked at places where anything smaller than half a sheet of plywood went straight into the skip to be recycled. Having said that, those are the sort of places where, if a big project came along and was just getting underway, a forklift hauled in...

Can you see a glue line at all? If so, is its colour somewhere close to red/ brown or purple? If yes, it's probably resorcinol formaldehyde, which is commonly used for bonding veneers used in external grade plywood. I've no good information on breaking the bond, but I'd be a bit surprised if...

Polyurethane adhesives, whatever the brand, are generally very good adhesives. Used correctly they form a very strong bond. People who report they can see the glue line after using this adhesive type, or any other type for that matter, and note that the adhesive has failed are not actually...

One fairly common problem to be aware of if using the finish itself to fill grain, especially on coarse timbers such as oak ash, etc, is their tendency to eventually shrink to a greater or lesser extent into the sunken open pores of the wood. The process can take quite a long time to develop...

About four decades ago one joiner at the place I worked regularly used the big belt sander to regrind his plane irons and chisels in preference to using the readily available 12" or 14" diameter ~3" wide grindstone on the other side of the workshop which was the 'official' regrinding station...

David, I'm pretty sure that if you were ever to stoop to buying, and actually reading my tome on the boring old topic of woody subjects (yawn, and extended overexaggerated yawn), you really wouldn't be overwhelmed by "too much woo", ha, ha. Slainte.

To be honest, I didn't think you'd aimed your comments specifically at me. I agree that there does seem to be a fair amount of what might be perceived as somewhat dubious sales orientated bloggery out there, or bloggery that's just generally not very good. I'm probably not the ideal person to...

Jacob, I don't claim that my modified smoother is better than a genuine scrubber, but it does a reasonable job. As to blunting the blades of my electric hand plane on all the rubbish and hard stuff found on the surface of some rough wood that's perhaps been lying on gravel, concrete, or...

I'm sure you're aware that I don't do bloggery, as you call it. I'm not the least bit interested in selling a method for modifying a smoothing plane to work as a scrubber. I just happened to have a smoother that was a bit of a dog, and a job where a scrubber might be useful, so roughly half an...

It's been interesting to watch this discussion to see how the points have been advanced. It's always fun to watch master Jacob relentlessly pursuing a point of view. I don't own a scrub plane, and mostly flatten boards and straighten edges on a planer. But every now and then I've had to resort...

Stuff sold as 'whitewood' in the UK is spruce (Picea abies) often called Norway spruce or Sitka spruce. It's classified as non-durable meaning you can expect it to last up to five years in ground contact, longer obviously if exposed to weather away from ground contact. Basically, I'd give up on...

The basic problem you have is that you've created an imbalanced structure. The plywood isn't rigid enough to remain flat after you've attached the wood blocks. It's like taking a piece of paper, laying it flat on a surface, and wiping the top face with a damp cloth - the paper curls up towards...

Yes, but you will need some 0000 steel wool, a paint scraper, an old toothbrush, and to avoid being clumsy, particularly with the with scraper. Slainte. PS. I thought I'd better add you'll also need some rubber gloves or gauntlets, preferably ones that go just about up to your elbow, and able...

6 or 7 mm cupping across a width of perhaps 600 mm isn't a great deal. Can you take out the cup (cross grain warp), with the concavity facing up simply by pressing down at both outer edges? If so, screwing the top down to the cabinets front, middle and back should be enough to pull them flat at...