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I'd say that was the wisest opinion you could provide given the circumstances. If it's really important to know, the best bet might be to get a sample tested by someone with a wood science background. I think I'd start by contacting people such as TRADA or Timber Engineering specialists at...

Hmm? You've got a rather badly compromised result caused, I'd say, by things going wrong. Gluing the top in all around a rebate allows nothing for expansion and contraction, which if the panel was set into a groove, as you planned initially, would have allowed the panel to expand and contract...

Am I correct in reading that lid as having a solid wood panel (top) tongued into a groove worked in the sides and ends? If so, I suspect your problem is that the panel forming the top has cupped and is strong enough to pull the sides and ends up with it. Relatively thick tops can do that because...

You'll need to come up with verifiable evidence to substantiate that claim to convince me of its veracity, because what you said, possibly (hopefully?) meant as a tongue-in-cheek and throwaway joke, doesn't match what I know about North American lumber grading, packing, shipping and export...

As Jacob has alluded to, the oil is soaking in to the much more porous sapwood than has soaked into the less porous heartwood. I suspect you're aware of the oil soaking in the most on the right hand side of your picture, and less so on the left. Given time and enough coats (hard to say how many)...

Ah, my concerns are allayed - it was just a thought. More rapid shrinkage of the outer ends of the logs isn't surprising. It's a slight shame that you haven't got an open ended shed that allows the wind to pass right through the stack, but obviously that's not the end of the world. Slainte.

Brian, have you stacked wet logs against that wall before? I ask because I'm aware of cases where wood stacked against or near to a wall for drying - milled and stickered up boards, not logs destined for burning, that have lead to dampness getting into the building. I ask in case that is a...

My prayers are answered. I thought perhaps this thread had faltered into huffy silence without reaching at least a partially satisfactory minimum goal of 100 posts - now that it's been rescued from its moribund quiet, there's hope for at least 200+ posts. Keep the claims and counter-claims going...

I'd like to think there are some contributors here, myself included, that do have reasonable or good knowledge and experience repairing old and antique furniture, and more recently made stuff that has suffered damage. True, a forum such as this isn't quite the same as a face to face...

Remove the top from the frame. Q 1. Yes Q 2. You'll only know when you try to refit. If they won't hold you'll have to pack the existing hole with a glued in wood sliver and bore a new pilot hole. You'll find out if you can when you get the hinge dismounted. You may be able to just straighten...

Okay David. I'm out because actually participating in never ending sharpening threads become a bore to me, but it seems you're correct and there might be 150 or more posts yet to come. On the other hand, I sometimes quite enjoy all the circular bickering and point scoring that such threads...

For most sharpening I use either the fine side of a combination oilstone, or a ceramic stone which I think is meant to be 800 grit. It just depends where I'm working which stone I use. I don't think I was taught to start with working the flat side of a plane iron or chisel first, although during...

David, some of what you said in that post kind of went over my head. But I had no trouble understanding the bit about setting the cap iron for dimensioning. before that though, there's getting the cap iron to be a good fit to the flat face of the blade, and a decent profile to direct the...

I'd say your last comment has most relevance to me, i.e., edge life proportional to its ease of sharpening. The truth is I've always found that whatever the makers have chosen for their cutting edge steel in planes and chisels have, for the greatest part, been good enough for me. In my early...

No. Never come across such a blade, ha, ha. And 33.5º is too steep by 0.5º. Slainte.

David, you're way ahead of me on metallurgy for plane irons and chisels. For some reason I've never found a need to get excited about the subject. When it comes to plane irons and chisels I have always simply sharpened and used whatever variety of steel the tool came with. And I've got a bit of...

Hmm? A wide redwood panel and a clear finish probably isn't going to fare particularly well. The best would be a yacht or spar varnish, e.g., Epiphanes or similar from a chandler. All the same, your client would need to instigate a regular maintenance programme, probably annually. And what's...

That's kind of interesting, David. It made me think about the number of plane irons I've worn out. I can think of only one, and that is the iron from what was my first purchased plane, a brand new Stanley or Record no 4. As I recall, I bought the plane in the late 1960s or early 1970s, and the...

Traditional uses include tool handles, particularly but not exclusively, chisels, so it's good for turning and detailed carving. Also it's used for stringing and inlay lines and marquetry (veneer forms). It's come in useful over centuries for anything expected to cope with shock, e.g., mallet...

Everbuild describe their various formulations of adhesive, such as their 502, D4 type, etc as a resin adhesive. That's basically code for saying it's a form of PVA or an aliphatic resin, with additional additives to create specific performance characteristics. Chuck the Titebond III out. It's...