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Hands, derived from the usual full name of the machine, I suppose, i.e., overhand surface plane. The name implies (maybe incorrectly, I'm not sure) the methodology is to feed the wood using a hand over hand technique. That's essentially how I've done flatting or surfacing and edging for close to...

That's much appreciated, Adam. Maybe there's a copy handy in the college library, and if not, perhaps I should get in touch with the highheidyin's there to extol the tome's virtues, and to persuade them they require multiple copies to satisfy the learning needs or goals of their students, ha...

Adam, I've very much enjoyed reading about your experiences, the skills and learning you're undertaking, and the issues you're discussing. I'm looking forward to reading and seeing more. Slainte.

I guess this is nothing to do with American v British English, but I do find it irritating that many people nowadays, when accused of wrongdoing or malfeasance of some sort, will say, "I refute that." When I hear that I expect the accused to follow up with a sentence containing evidence to...

Maybe, as you already have a metal base with a lip to hold things in place, you could simply make something that resembles the top of a pallet, i.e., four pieces around the edge and screw slats to those four pieces ... something like that. Slainte.

No apologies needed. I suggest leaving a gap of about 8 - 10 mm. What I'm not sure about is how you plan to simply screw the parts together. I'd think you'd need some sort of rebate in your side and end rails, and a matching tongue worked on the end of each slat to fit into the rebate and then...

Just a small addition to the above. The framework of the table top has two long rails, two short rails at either end, and a mid-rail, the one with a hole at its mid-length for an umbrella pole. These rails are all tenoned into mortices in the long rail, but each of those M&Ts were glued with...

I'm guessing your intention is to make a solid (gap free) wood top with edge jointed boards which are then joined to the clamped (breadboard) ends, something like below. This sort of construction would be likely to fail quickly in a garden table; there's a great deal of expansion and contraction...

Not sure if it was one of my graduates, Jacob; I've not seen more than one or two of them post here. It's possible though, I suppose. I do wonder if it might even have been me, but I think it's unlikely, and I can't recall ever really getting into any table saw usage discussions on this board...

You're a brave man, Ian. Putting something like that up was sure to elicit either some nit-picking responses, or downright critical ones. You seem to have escaped without being too badly scathed so far, ha, ha. Here's a link to a table (cabinet) saw article from about twenty plus years ago to...

I could tell from the photograph that panel is solid wood. The shake at the top right of the photograph, and just to the right of the join line was a pretty sure sign. As to the choice of finish, I'd say that's up to you; I'm not a huge fan of oil finishes of the type you are investigating, but...

I suspect it's European beech, not teak. The small brown flecks of the medullary rays suggest it's beech - it's definitely not teak, anyway. As to a finish, a tough and durable one would be a short oil interior varnish which would be as good a finish as any, although there are no doubt other...

European oak is classed as durable, meaning 15 - 25 years of life in contact with the ground. Durability of this sort of length is one historical reason in this part of the world (Europe) for oak being a favourite on which to hang agricultural and other gates, whether the gates themselves were...

I'd not realised you were dealing with thicker pieces having simply assumed veneer, especially when you mentioned lifting. So, solutions might be, as mrpercysnodgrass suggests, a wax stick and repolish, or possibly sanding that area level and repairing the polish locally, followed by polishing...

That lifting you describe suggests there may be a problem with adhesion of that piece of veneer. If so, it may be that you need to correct that problem by, for example, at minimum, feeding in additional adhesive and clamping. I could be wrong on the cause of the lifting you describe, but I've...

Try white spirits, generously, perhaps scrubbing gently with either wire wool or fine nylon abrasive pads, and wipe off with clean cloth. Let dry and try the shellac again after the sanding you propose. You'll know pretty quickly if there's still a problem possibly requiring a full strip off...

I'm sorry to hear that the challenges of running your courses has left you rather overwhelmed. I suppose the one bright spot is that this last year's disruption to normal business has led to you focusing on an alternative or modified direction. Hopefully this will work out for you and your...

Thanks to both Robin and Paul for their information. I think I'm almost certain to get a copy of TurboCAD Deluxe 2020 to supplement my renewed access to Fusion 360, see my message above to pils). Paying for it just once is an attraction, although like other computer programs it may need updating...

Many thanks for that information, pils. I'd not realised that was possible, but your link enabled renewal. I think one problem that was making things difficult for me is that I have two Autodesk accounts, one personal which I used originally to download and use Fusion 360 in the first place, and...

About a year ago I started playing around with the free Fusion 360 drafting program offered by Autodesk. I did wonder when I started how long 'free' might be. I've now found out that 'free' lasts about a year. I guess I'd got reasonably good using the program and quite enjoyed both using it and...