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  1. S

    Tambour cabinet

    I think I'd use solid walnut for the staves, or some other darkish wood cheaper than walnut, somewhere between 16 to 20 mm wide by ~12 mm thick, and maybe 30 - 50 mm longer than you need. When they're made I'd set up a base board with a square framework on its face to hold the staves square, but...
  2. S

    Square Cabinets, Backs and Rabbets

    Are the two sides the same length? Ditto that question for the top and bottom pieces? Slainte.
  3. S

    Anomaly in growth rings...

    Artex. I see what you're saying, but I see contour lines of a steep gradient sandwiched between lesser inclines. Slainte.
  4. S

    Old snooker table frame - what wood is this?

    Swietenia macrophylla is a possibility, aka (South American) big leaf mahogany, if the snooker table was more than about 50 - 60 years old. Slainte.
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    Anomaly in growth rings...

    Just for fun, here's another example of unusual growth ring pattern in a piece of American ash. I found it when I cut a a long board into shorter pieces. I've no good explanation for it but, interestingly, there wasn't anything odd in the surface or edge grain pattern either before or after...
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    Colouring water based filler

    If, as you say, the filler is water based, then you should be able to adjust the colour through adding water based wood dye. A quick search revealed Carbatec in New Zealand may be one source. I imagine there are other NZ based suppliers of wood finishing products, but I didn't do any additional...
  7. S

    How Necessary is a Specialised Scrub Plane?

    No biggie on missing my comment. I like to think I don't do much 'woo' when it comes to timber tech, and no doubt there is plenty of information you may not want, need or use. CW I assume refers to Colonial Williamsburg. I'm not going to get between you and Adam on the subject of scrub planes...
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    Try-plane with lead in its nose

    Yes, to show I intended to use the word or phrasing, but not there to indicate a previous misuse quoted verbatim. It was used in this case because 'give me the hump' is a quite common alternative means of expressing upset caused. It crossed my mind when typing that you, being American, may not...
  9. S

    Try-plane with lead in its nose

    Neither moniker would in any way give me the hump (sic). Anyway, the evidence of my lackadaisical or intermittent approach to posting is in my Message count. I see that over roughly seventeen years I've managed to spout my ill-informed and ill-considered waffle in less than 2,400 messages, an...
  10. S

    Try-plane with lead in its nose

    Red bells? Interesting, because I've never seen such a thing when visiting this forum. I suspect that's because of my user settings in which I specified that I didn't want notifications of responses to messages I've posted. I can't see the need to be notified about such things because I know...
  11. S

    Try-plane with lead in its nose

    Both of you say interesting things. But I do wish you'd both stop butting heads. Each of you come from very different experience and backgrounds. My background and experience is different again, and whilst I can be strongly fixed in my point of view or position, I've usually found that analysing...
  12. S

    Try-plane with lead in its nose

    Both you and Jacob post useful 'nuggets'. Sorry to accuse you both of usefulness. Slainte.
  13. S

    Try-plane with lead in its nose

    Of course I'm under no obligation to read, but if I don't check the threads out from time to time, I'd miss the amusing and informative bits. It doesn't eliminate the tedious business of having to sift through the cr*pola to find the useful nuggets. Slainte.
  14. S

    Try-plane with lead in its nose

    I usually find these p*ssing exchanges between yourself and David somewhat amusing, and sometimes informative, but now it's all just getting tedious. Slainte.
  15. S

    End Grain Splitting

    If plenty of allowance has been included for expansion and contraction with the fixings, i.e., as you describe, a 5 mm screw into an 8 mm hole, it seems there might be another possible cause. The splitting you show is at the end of the board, and coincides with the deepest part of the fluting...
  16. S

    Paul Sellers says cap iron position doesn’t matter

    Ha, ha. You must have missed, or forgotten, discussion of chatoyance in Cut & Dried at section 7.9. As to planes and the correct setting and preparation of their cap iron, aka chip breaker, if they have one, I prefer to remain an inactive observer in this thread. For that matter, I like to be...
  17. S

    How to use push sticks to cut wood safely on a table saw.

    Something like these, for example, from Screwfix. Slainte.
  18. S

    How to use push sticks to cut wood safely on a table saw.

    In general, I'm partially in agreement with you, particularly if the gloves in question are what I can best describe as baggy fitting on the fingers, and perhaps with floppy, long and large cuffs. I've seen a few woodworkers using this type of glove whilst feeding saws, spindle moulders...
  19. S

    Stuff for my BA submission in August. AKA Welcome to The Dark Side.

    I wasn't really trying to promote my own product, just making a bit of a joke, but since you've asked, I don't sell copies of the book. I leave that to Classic Hand Tools or, in the north-east, Woodsmith Experience. Slainte.
  20. S

    Any idea of the species of tree?

    Hawthorn and a willow by the looks of it. Unless you're showing only the odds and ends left after the main trunk(s) has or have been removed, I'd say you have nothing there worth attempting to board up and dry. If your photographs show trunks, they're very small with little or no yield, but if...
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