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Interesting approach, Derek. When I biscuit mitres with my DeWalt machine I set the fence to 90 degrees to create the 45 degree corner at the intersection between the two fences and use this register the machine off the outside corner of the mitre. I've always found this method easy to set up...

In general I think most of the negative comments expressed so far are rather unfair. I accept that the furniture offered isn't high end or high quality, but that's reflected in the economically priced items offered for sale, taking into account the cost of materials, hardware and finishes. Then...

The snail countersink bits also cut very cleanly after you've bored the screw's clearance hole. The image below is from Tilgear, and the example at this link is less than £10. Slainte.

For lids like the one I showed, the solid wood top is pre-finished before assembly of the box sides around it. The lid itself can move in the grooves cut into the box sides. In other words the full width of the lid tongue to tongue is ~2.5 - 3 mm less than the distance between the bottom of the...

I'd say there isn't really a right or wrong way to form the transition. It could be curved as I did, which is pretty normal, or you could do sharp and square. Having said that, I wouldn't choose the sharp square option, just because I don't like the idea of the visual appearance. I hog out the...

You may remember the sketch below that I provided in a previous thread you initiated, and it is a valid methodology for making a lid look thicker than it actually is. Making it thin at its centre part means that cross grain cupping is relatively weak meaning the lid less likely to distort the...

I'm not quite sure why my handle was included in your thread title. I don't think I have superior insights into such repairs, although I used to do a lot of antique restoration and repairs a lifetime ago, but here goes anyway. I have done a few procedures (three or four) similar to that outlined...

It's called Bloxygen. UK prices seem to be about twelve or thirteen times higher than it costs in the USA. I'd take a lot of convincing to think UK prices make the stuff worthwhile buying. Slainte.

Yep, tried them when I lived in Houston. Disgusting slop. Slainte.

Ah. Point taken. I was thinking of interior furniture which, for the most part, doesn't get much above 13 - 14% MC. I'd not focused at all on the original question about a shed build; my eye was caught by the mention of furniture beetle, not the shed question. Talking of sheds, some years ago I...

Presumably, if it's reckoned that about the lowest wood MC that the grubs can survive is 12%, then during earlier stages of grub development the timber would have been wetter in order for those grubs to chew and find sustenance. I know emerging common furniture beetles chew on wood only to...

Isn't dry wood MC largely irrelevant to the feeding needs and life cycle of an adult furniture beetle? The level of wood MC is only relevant to the life cycle of the grub because it lives in the wood and on the nutrients it can find there - too dry wood means the grub can't survive and mature to...

In general Adam, I agree, but research and data suggest that in fact 12% is the lowest wood moisture content at which newly hatched furniture beetle grubs can exist (Ridout, 2004, p58, Timber Decay in Buildings: the conservation approach to treatment, Spon Press, Abingdon, Oxfordshire). Slainte.

Ah, okay, you've sort of forced me into declaring my hand, but everyone has to bear in mind that there's nothing clever or innovative about my method. But, it's basically as you say, i.e., start with the flat side of the tool (bench chisel or plane iron) and work that a bit making sure I keep...

I'd rather not. I can't be bothered with all the dicking backwards and forwards after I say my piece. Slainte.

Here's how I do it. Start by, er .......... Ahh, screw it ... I can't be ar-sed, and I'll leave it to all the usual adversaries, ha, ha. Slainte.

As ever here in the UK, the convention for listing dimensions of solid wood, or veneered boards, the first dimension indicates the length parallel with the long grain, then cross-grain width (breadth) and lastly thickness, so generally, but not always, the long grain of the board (solid or...

That's an attractive cabinet. I can see how that tambour could possibly take off and crash to its fully open position, and then be heavy at the early stage of closing. Apart from counterweights or springs to alleviate the problem I'm aware of pulley systems using springs and wire that spans and...

That configuration is similar to the drinks cabinet below. I anticipated the gravity problem you described and built in a hidden pair of sprung loaded pistons or rods at either end hidden at the back to engage with the last stave of the tambour as it opened. It cushioned the opening of the...

Hmm? It looks like you're moving to a methodology very similar to that which I suggested in my first post, i.e., set out staves held square on a base board and veneer the whole surface as if it's one panel. The reason I suggested it was because I'd employed it myself, not for making tambour...