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  1. S

    Source Of Oak

    For reasons already described in brief and in part above by Adam, the options you outline are likely to be a waste of time and materials. Good quality green oak as Adam suggested already milled to ~25 mm thick (or sleepers might be an option, not a great one really, because you'd need to mill...
  2. S

    Tambour cabinet

    The end result is very impressive. Well done. Slainte.
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    Help valuing Multico M3 Morticer

    Now there is probably the main reason my post count is relatively small considering I've been active here for about seventeen years. On the other hand I can't deny that I rather enjoy intermittently monitoring the bickering that goes on primarily in those off-topic forums, plus any and all the...
  4. S

    Tung oil, skinning in the can

    Some people reckon a good tip is to replace the used finish with stones or marbles. In other words, if the can is half empty, stick a bunch of marbles in until the liquid rises almost to the top of the can before replacing the lid. I've tried once or twice, but I can't say the trick was an...
  5. S

    Is a split router fence really neccessary?

    I don't have experience of that router table brand, and can't comment on the functionality of the fence. I probably wouldn't give up on it in the short term and I'd try and puzzle out how to either use if effectively or improve it. Failing that, a simple straight fence is easy enough to fashion...
  6. S

    Sanding oak veneer for staining

    I'm guessing that you've made the cabinet out of pre-veneered board - you do say it's your first cupboard, so I'm supposing you've not matched and laid sheets of veneer from scratch. Assuming I'm right and the material is man-made board pre-veneered in oak it will have been sanded at the time...
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    Tips for improving woodworking accuracy

    Here are some scans of an old article on measuring room spaces using telescoping sticks to do the measuring and creating rods from the telescoping sticks to make fitted furniture to go into the measured space. Rods, of course, are useful for all sorts of furniture and joinery projects whether...
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    Stuff for my BA submission in August. AKA Welcome to The Dark Side.

    I can confirm that I've enjoyed watching this thread develop as I indicated I would in my earlier post, a long time back, I suppose. No doubt you're keen to see your assessed grade, but I strongly suspect the result will be very positive. The awards you've already garnered for the carving...
  9. S

    Tambour cabinet

    Normally attachment of the cloth to the staves is accomplished simply by passing a warm iron over the (PVA) glued cloth, see below. I wonder if the vac bag was the cause of the cupping? Hopefully that cupping won't be a source of sticky or overly stiff tambour movement. Good progress though, by...
  10. S

    Tambour cabinet

    I'm not criticising your reasoning for making the choice you've made. It looks like it's going to work for you, and that's the key, really. Yes, the tambour's groove in Torpedore was cut on a CNC machine from a CAD drawing, so I just took advantage of technology available to me at the time. In...
  11. S

    Advice on finishing cherry

    Oak and other coarse textured woods, plus medium textured wood species such as walnut: 180 grit. Cherry and other fine textured species, e.g., maple: no higher than 220 grit. There's no point sanding with grit sizes smaller than the texture of the wood, e.g., the open pores of oak are...
  12. S

    Tambour cabinet

    You seem to be making good progress. I do think you've made extra work for yourself by shaping each of the tongues at the end of each veneered stave to allow the tambour to negotiate the corner. It would have been quicker to have widened the groove in the carcase at each corner which would have...
  13. S

    Quick advice requested

    Limbs, especially those which have sprung essentially horizontally from the main stem, tend to be full of reaction wood, and are unlikely to yield much in the way of usable boards because of its instability. You might get a few workable bits, but be prepared to expect a great deal of work for...
  14. S

    Maple - suitable for outdoor use 365 days.

    Maple, as Dr Bob says, is complete pants for that kind of use. Find something else, e.g., oak, chestnut, etc. Slainte.
  15. S

    Book selling best outlet suggestions

    Ten volumes, one double sided A7 page per volume? Too much information, er, probably. Slainte.
  16. S

    Book selling best outlet suggestions

    Love the idea - go for it. Can you restrict each volume to just one side of A6 please or, better still, to just one side of A7? Slainte.
  17. S

    How to prep this wood as a table

    Start by chipping off the loose bits of the waney edge with a chisel. Better yet would be a drawknife, if you've got one. Later, after other procedures (planing) sand it to an acceptable smoothness. As for flattening the board I'd guess getting the first face basically flat might take anywhere...
  18. S

    Radial arm saw capable of cutting 150mm x 150mm

    Wadkin BRA 450 will just about do your 150 mm depth of cut. Then there is one offered by Scott & Sargeant with a 200 mm+ depth of cut. I'm not sure either come in single phase. I guess you'd need to ask the supplier about that. I can't imagine these machines are at the budget end for price...
  19. S

    Birch ply warping/ underfloor heating.

    It's sometimes said the expression 'flat plywood' is an oxymoron, that the two words don't belong together in a sentence. It's not always the case, in fact it's quite rare, for plywood used as slab type doors to warp, but it does happen sometimes. I have made quite a few cabinets over the years...
  20. S

    Sorry, another wood ID thread.

    Could be out of the genus Shorea. There are about seventy species within the genus sold as meranti with additional descriptors, e.g., dark red, etc. Meranti is also sometimes described as Philippine mahogany, although the genus and species are not related to any of the true mahoganies. That's my...
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