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Thanks. The top and bottom are veneered 18mm MDF with a 60mm wide mitred walnut frame The maple internal cabinet is 12mm maple faced MDF Yes I am planning to do this without a top or bottom to the internal maple cabinet and to use dominoes to join it - and agree about the racking issue you...

The internal maple cabinet has a wide rear surface which is about 1080 x 510 and if all goes to plan there should only be a gap of 4 or 5mm with the tambour outside that. So I don't think anything else is needed. The tambour is completely on the outside of the piece - so if the doors are slid...

Thanks guys but I had always planned to remove a small part of the “lip” on the back edge of the top and bottom to allow the tambours to be inserted or removed. Then I will make a small replacement piece which will have screws to hold it in place so I will always be able to remove it

I also started on the front corners of the cabinet which were the same as the rear but only half as wide so they will be in line with the diagonal line on each corner Again it was a little fiddly but easier than the rear corners - I glued up those front corners onto the side pieces again using...

A month has gone by.... so much other stuff etc going on so apologies for the delays. Progress slow but I think all remaining major problems are (almost) solvable. Last time I wrote I had finished the top and bottom of the cabinet and routed a 6mm slot which the tambour will run in I had to do a...

Some more progress over the weekend. Thanks Pete and Richard for your helpful suggestion about using a guide bush. I feel a little stoopid as I did know about using a router with one but I hadn't done it for ages and kind of forgot. Senior moment! Anyhow, I made a template in 9mm MDF Then set...

OK thanks Pete yes I quite like that idea

Thanks for asking I am still trying to solve my two problems I talked about in my last post. Yesterday I made a trial mitred corner out of 18 x 60mm walnut and tried using my brand new 6mm spiral router cutter to cut round the corner as it were - using a 2-point fence - and unfortunately it is...

Next instalment... I added corner braces to the frame to strengthen it as the 2 x 10mm domino in each corner joint would be under considerable stress Then started work on the mitred edge pieces for the top and bottom part of the cabinet. I cut them roughly on the table saw then tidied up on the...

After finishing the ends I started work on the sides and cheated a bit because I cut and glued small pieces of grain matched walnut to complete the corner curves so that I could cut the long rails at 32x50 rather than 32x60. Glued and clamped it all up then spent a good whole cleaning up those...

I made more progress over the weekend. finished the four legs Then started on the rails... These are 32x50 section walnut but the ends need to be 60mm deep to match the the curved section of the corner piece. So for the shorter end pieces I did these by making them 60x32 and cutting them on the...

It's been slow going. Work, family stuff etc etc However finally some progress this week... I finished veneering the 2 MDF boards making up the centre part of the top and bottom of the cabinet. Only the top has the quarter matched burr walnut - the other side of the top and the two faces of the...

I got an old Axminster Perform one for sale on Ebay at the moment. Am I allowed to even write that? Apologies if not - didn't want to upset anyone

Thanks both of you for your various replies - had a busy week so not much done in the workshop this week. However, I glued up 8 slats with veneer on solid wood and rebated the veneer sides of both ends to create a tongue on the end of each slat to run in a groove on the cabinet as suggested by...

So more experimentation - I glued up a piece of 9mm marine ply and cut that up - and to be honest it is so obvious in the gaps because of the inherent 'stripiness' of plywood. It also was rough and not possible to plane very smoothly. Then I tried a piece of 10mm teak and glued veneer to that -...

Thanks Pete I would be concerned about this flimsy Spanish walnut veneer that I have already bought being attached directly to canvas - I think it needs to be on solid wood or plywood My maths not so good - the two tambours will be 1000mm long not 1600 - so about 130 slats in total but still alot!

Thanks Neil very much for that link to Philip Morley - he makes some nice stuff That tambour wall cabinet is interesting but the tambours run inside the cabinet not outside. It looks like he cut all those slats in solid hardwood, then shaped the ends of all of them, then glued veneer on to the...

Thanks but wouldn’t that mean that you could see plastic when the tambour was opened?? That wouldn’t work I think

Ive had a bit of a ply over the weekend and mocked up a corner to see how it looks: I took a piece of 9mm birch ply and veneered it both sides using some leftover burr walnut. I routed a 3mm slot in either end then sliced it up on the table saw into 20mm slats and cleaned up the edges. It came...

Thanks all for your helpful comments. I am going to make up a 'trial tambour' and see how it all looks. I have a thin, very sharp CMT blade for my tablesaw with a kerf of only 1.6mm and I had thought I would vacuum veneer the whole sheet on both sides and then cut 16mm strips of it when it was...