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very clean lines looks lovely

Progress is steady but I keep getting interrupted - work, phone, important jobs etc Anyway the cabinet itself is virtually finished - I did all the little fitting jobs including: Remaking the shelf which was too thin and not a perfect fit - this one is better with some more interesting grain...

THanks Rob - yes I am planning to do those catches etc - There is a FWW article which goes into detail of all the 'Krnovian' details like the shelf supports, the door catches and the door pulls. I will take a better phot to show the door fit next time BW Mark

It took almost a whole day but the doors are finished - and look good. I used some knife hinges (my first time - loved them) - which were OK to install except that, had I been JK I would have cut the mortices for the hinges before glueing up - as a result I then had to cut all the mortices on...

Cabinet is taking shape and going better. More decisions have 'happened' as I have seen how it is. First there will definitely not be a drawer inside the cabinet as there would not be enough room for all the bottles and glasses (!). So, that being so I have glued up the cabinet with the back...

This has been a most frustrating stop-start project largely because of work getting in the way. However I have a few days off and have made some progress friday and yesterday The best decision I made was to abandon plans to put a drawer in the curved upper section which has simplified things...

I seem to have got myself into a bit of a hole and would welcome some advice / assistance from some of the more experienced here The doors which are all but finished, are 600 mm high and curved convex outward. They will sit in front of the curved sides. The concave curved sides are however 725...

Thanks for the advice Jacob - the curves on these side pieces are very shallow so they could be 'hollowed out' as you suggest. However, I do not have any beautiful-enough 12 inch wide sycamore for them - plus I really want to learn a new skill (i.e. coopering). Therefore I have remade the panels...

Thanks guys for the advice - it is all stored away for future use and this Sunday is going to be the big glass-cutting day - eek! Till then I need to sort out the cabinet and I was going nowhere fast with that bl**dy coopering business - not happy with them and they all be redone with better...

My apologies for the delays in this project - I had a busy weekend on call and seem to have been late every night at work Anyway have got a few hours done this week so far. So I have definitely decided that the front of the rails of the base will be flush with the fronts and sides of the legs of...

Yes Rob I agree that would be more difficult Can I ask you about coopering? - as I think the 2 side panels of the cabinet are going to be concave outwards coopered panels about 11 inches wide and 750 long. I have seen thread of yours where you talked about coopering but I could not find details...

Good point - but if that happened I could just put a ?**** bead I think it is called around the whole drawer? Think I will cut the burr and see how robust it looks THanks again

No problem Rob thanks - really - I valued the advice I have another query - sorry. I have never made drawer fronts using a burr before - I was thinking of cutting and glueing a 3 or 4 mm thick 'veneer' of burr onto a similarly-coloured substrate wood for the curved fronts of the drawers - that...

Thanks Gerard - I agree that is what I have decided to do I have sketched the cabinet and have some lovely sycamore which will book-match for the sides - but I think I need some more for the back - not certain yet I have not quite decided about the drawer(s) below. The 600mm width makes one...

So it serves me right for not planning anything at all about this project.... I have reached my first major ****-up. Somehow the width of both doors together is 590mm whereas the width of the base (not glued up yet) is 570mm. So, even if the doors are sitting in front of the carcass (rather than...

Didn't get much done this weekend due to 'more important jobs' as they were described to me However, I carried on with the doors of my cabinet and decided on 6mm dowels joints between stiles and muntins I used a short 6mm Festool bit which was excellent to drill the dowel holes - plus finally...

Rob I love the design and the figuring etc of the wood is fantastic - but I agree I can't see the purpose of it - not that objet's d'art need a purpose. It is beautifully made Mark

Got back from work tonight a bit earlier than usual and very keen to carry on So I cut a rebate in the rails of the doors to leave 4 mm which will be the thickness of the lip holding the glass (JK says apparently that the glass should be at the front of the doors to make them 'lighter' in...

And sorry to Mark mtr1 - missed your question completely. I made the doors first as that is what JK seems to do - it is an interesting concept and I agree not what I have ever done before - but he apparently says that any slight 'twists' in the doors can be taken out in the frame. Not sure...

Thanks Mark These legs were quite easy - cut a template in 6mm MDF (I think - might have been plywood), then drew round it on one side of the 45mm square leg 'blank' - before cutting roughly round with a bandsaw. Then stuck the template to the side with double-sided tape - before using a...