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The brass tubes have arrived so last night I started the process of riveting the infills in place I started by drilling a 6mm hole right through the plane with the front bun in place and clamped firmly. I checked with a digital angle gauge very carefully that the hole was going to go through...

Thanks for the Knurling tip Andy - stored away for future use I agree this thread would have been better in the handtools section - I wonder if any of the mods are reading this and would do that please? Thanks. There will be a short pause whilst the lever cap gets engraved and I am waiting for...

Ha ha remember i work in a hospital though Jimi... pill bottles v easy to come by! Ian has been in touch and has agreed to engrave the lever cap for a very reasonable price with my signature How exciting Mark

Thanks for your very kind words Jimi - but to be honest I think you and I both know that you were the inspiration for this - so hats off to you and my eternal thanks as I believe I have unearthed a lifelong interest. I have made contact with Ian and Clive at Chalco and am waiting for a design...

Ah got it - found this great thread by Jim Yehle which explains it http://user.xmission.com/~jry/ww/tools/a13/a13.html So I need to source some tubing - Oxon fastenings will probably oblige Shavings before the end of the weekend ;) Mark

Many thanks for help / comments I have redone the slot for the iron and cap iron assembly -thanks Jimi. Did it on the router table with a 20mm straight bit 1mm at a time. I think I must be missing something - but can you tell me why I need sleeves in the infill - why couldn't I just drill a hole...

Its beautiful very well done. What are the dimensions and what are they going to keep in it? I wondered because the lidded smaller compartments look purpose-built for something? Lovely Mark

Yes all good ideas Thanks Jimi - I knew I had forgotten to do something - I would have realised after finishing which would have been tedious. Good points Pete - I will reassess when the infills are finished Regards Mark

Thanks Jimi- can I let you know when I start making the mitre plane - I am thinking similar to the beast that Richard T made with the rounded sides. I spent a pleasant hour in the sun yesterday going through the grits on the rear infill - finishing up at 400 The applied several coats of sealer...

that is such a nice plane Jimi :) The box has just amazing colour and depth to it - remind me where you got that? I would love to get hold of some as my next project is going to be a big fat mitre plane made entirely from scratch not using any kit M

Thanks both - and Jimi do you do all your finishing before glueing it in or the other way round? Otherwise you would get TruOil etc on the metal walnut you? The kit came with 3 x 1/4" steel rods and I have only used 1 of them to keep the cap iron in place - so I wonder if they mean for me to use...

Jimi you are too kind but of course the major difference is that the metal parts of the plane were all square before I started so the variation in width of the infill along the length of the plan is 0.1mm or less according to my gauge. I do need your advice - I ordered the Birchwood grain filler...

I glued it all up with TB1 and left it to dry on saturday night Sunday morning early I unclamped it and then went to work on the front bun. I used a router bit to remove waste on the sides and cocked it up. Arrrggghhh. cut too much off and it was about 0.5mm too loose. So I went off and calmed...

I made good progress over the weekend mostly due to the reduced number of 'other things' which appear mysteriously on my 'to do list'! I was worried about how the main body would turn out as I was going to have to laminate it from 3 pieces of the figured beech. I managed to find 3 slices which...

No they wanted over a grand for the cutter head before factoring in import duty VAT, etc etc so I am using my old faithful

Thanks all 3 of you for really helpful comments. I think I am going to have it hard enough anyway without faffing around trying to fit an adjuster into this lump of fine timber. Good call. M

Thanks Andy I have been 'umming and 'arring about whether to get a Norris adjuster for it. I think they do them at that place down the road from you? Bristol Design? What do you think? Thanks Mark

I agree with Steve - and also that website quoted http://www.toureiffel.paris/en/everything-about-the-tower/the-illuminations.html refers to 20000 lights only? and they are only 6 watts each so not even that costly to run? Seems an enormous error to be propagated? Cheers Mark

Starting work on the rear infill I finally stopped being such a wuss and cut the wood up First was the rear handle - spent ages choosing how to cut it trying to avoid big holes and cracks The small cracks will be filled with a mixture of CA glue and sawdust from the same piece Then started...

Kitchen stools in beech turned for the legs and bars and using old kitchen worktops jointed together then shaped for the tops Cheers Mark