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I’ve done plenty of veneering, on all sorts of substrates, but never on OSB as it’s too rough. And despite knowing plenty of professional cabinet makers I’m not aware of anyone else who has ever used OSB. That doesn’t make us right of course, but it should be enough to give you serious pause...

Interesting point. I can't say I've noticed any significant difference in actual use between stay set cap irons and standard Bailey cap irons in this particular respect. However, it's easy to see how what you report could indeed be the case. The standard cap iron is pretty thin and, within...

Nice job. That must put you streets ahead of anyone else in terms of practical "stay set" knowledge. So what's your verdict on the stay set system?

Cedar both glues and planes a treat. I make drawer bottoms from 8mm Cedar of Lebanon, here you can see it both edge jointed and planed, Cedar's a bit too light for highly stressed or load bearing furniture components like legs or chairs, but it's a superb choice for other applications like...

Thanks for the advice, in the pot they go then!

Full credit to you Brian. You are the living proof that you can't keep a good man down. =D>

Digging up the last of the main crop potatoes it looks like there were one or two missed spuds from last year, that have produced their own crop this year. I'm virtually certain this is the case as they look completely different from the version I planted this year, but they're identical to the...

Sounds like an interesting solution , doubly so for curved mouldings. If something works then that's plenty good enough for me!

Here's a test on Sycamore. The four finishes, from left to right, are Polyvine water based PU, HP water based PU, Osmo Raw (3044), and Osmo PolyX. All finishes had three coats applied according to manufacturers instructions. Typical red wine staining was repeated three times at one minute, ten...

Yes, for furniture purposes almost always. I'll make curved sanding blocks to match the profile, either the full profile in one hit or in stages. The actual grits depends on the quality of the routing. With a sharp router bit and a well controlled cut you can sometimes just go 180 and 220. But...

It's an interesting question. It's generally assumed that end grain finishes darker because end grain is more absorbent. That's partially true, but it is a surprisingly minor part of the story. The more important issue seems to be that end grain, at a micro level, tears out when cut or machined...

Water based poly varnish has its place, but you need to be aware of the downsides. Probably the most significant is that it offers very poor protection against red wine and fruit juice spills, plus it's worth noting that some water based pu varnishes will darken pale timbers almost as much as...

There's an Osmo finish called Osmo Raw Transparent, the product number is 3044. It's basically regular Osmo PolyX but with a small amount of a whitening agent that counteracts the yellowing/darkening effect of the oil. You get all the protection benefits of PolyX plus the ease of application but...

Titebond Extend, a UF glue (normally a liquid UF such as Bordens, but Cascamite if not), and an animal glue (sometimes traditional Scotch glue pearls in a double boiler for larger quantities, but a liquid hide glue is just as good and convenient for smaller quantities). Those three cover 90%...

It dries a pale, translucent beige. The name "Extend" is a bit misleading, I find it gives no more than a minute or two additional life. Of course, sometimes a minute is the difference between success and failure so I still use it, but it's certainly not a guarantee of relaxed glue ups...

Osmo delivers good moisture protection, so it might take several applications of water through the finish before you'd get sufficient moisture penetration into the fibres to allow steaming. Unless the dent is unsightly I'd be inclined to leave well alone. Osmo is pretty good at localised...

Not great. Neither MDF nor Melamine Faced Chipboard take fastenings particularly well, but of the two chipboard is probably the worst. When a screw fails in MDF it tends to just strip the threading, so a bit of epoxy in the hole will give you a second attempt. But when a screw fails in MFC it...

Is it worth rebuilding? Absolutely! Down here on the Solent there are loads of Seagulls still chugging along. They're like Morris Minors or Land Rovers, bomb proof and everyone feels better for just seeing one. https://www.britishseagull.com/technicaltips.php

If you ask for Poplar or Tulipwood in any yard around here then this is what you get. If you can self select many people pick out the boards without the darker streaks, but under paint it's all the same. https://www.woodshopdirect.co.uk/planed ... ar-timber/

Another vote for Poplar. It's almost like a half way house between softwood and hardwood. It's finely grained and reasonably pale, so it shows layout lines and gauge marks really clearly (unlike say Oak). It's kind on your tools and easy to work (unlike say Ash). It's priced roughly the same as...