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There's a Felder Owners Group Yahoo forum that's helpful and knowledgeable, you'll find more Kappa 40 owners there than here.

Osmo is oil based, it will affect pale timbers just like any other oil based finish. Osmo make a range of alternative finishes that contain pigments that neutralise any yellowing. They range from "Raw Transparent Oil" product code 3044, which cancels out the yellowing; up to "White Wax Matt"...

I used to have a Tormek, but I sold it a few years ago and replaced it with a Pro-Edge. I've also got a fair bit of experience of using traditional grinding wheels in various workshops. The Tormek jig system delivers accurate and repeatable results across a wide range of tools. But the main...

You'll often hear that the depth of cut should be no greater than the width of the cutter. That's not a bad rule of thumb, but it's still just an approximation. For example with a good quality, solid carbide, spiral upcut bit, working a mild timber you could easily go two or three times deeper...

A number 04 plane has a couple of advantages. Because it's relatively light it's useful for more delicate planing jobs, like levelling the sawn off edges of a box, In this particular example the workpiece is prone to tear out, so a closely set cap iron on an 04 plane is an efficient way of...

Bubinga had become popular for higher end tool handles over the past ten or twenty years, but I guess CITES will have put a stop to that. It darkens and patinates nicely over time, but to be honest it doesn't quite have that depth that you get with say Indian Rosewood, However, you do find...

Lots of professional finishers de-nib with just a coarse rag like Hessian, or use a bit of scrunched up brown paper. It really depends of what type of de-nibbing you're doing, if it's specks of dust trapped in Osmo or Danish Oil or a wiping varnish then that's all you need. But if it's removing...

I don't use a wobble saw but I regularly use grooving blades on a spindle moulder for cutting kerfs or tenons. I wouldn't worry too much about where you place the blade. As you can see in this example it's about half way up the shaft to allow plenty of up and down adjustment.

Very, very impressive! =D>

The devil's in the detail. If you've got a dedicated saw with a genuinely accurate sliding table then having both is probably a waste of space, but you'd have to spend quite a lot of money on a sliding table panel saw to achieve angled or compound cuts as accurate and repeatable as you'll get...

I seem to remember a previous conversation Mike, where it emerged that on your wheel gauge the wheel is considerably larger than the shaft. I'd also leave a wheel gauge like that to gather dust, as it can only really make a deep cut and the secret with any gauge is to make a shallow cut...

http://www.originalmarquetry.co.uk/cate ... eers_1.htm https://www.capitalcrispin.com/products.php

With pieces like that the back panel is critical, it's virtually part of what's being displayed inside, and your choice of timber for the back panel absolutely nails it. =D>

Nice job, the Bog Oak looks jet black and absolutely stunning, as good as it gets in fact! =D>

Whenever possible apply a coat or two of finish to the panel (but not to the frame) before gluing up the door. This yields two advantages. First the glue won't stick to the finish, and secondly if the panel shrinks after assembly you won't be left with a "grin", which is the finisher's name...

Smashing job, and full credit for seeing it through to the end. =D>

Bob, leaving aside the re-sawing, making a 230mm tall box from 6mm thick timber is a bit questionable. That's quite a large box so personally I'd be thinking about 12 or even 15mm thick sides. If everything goes to plan (and it's a big "if") you might just get two 9 or 10mm thick boards from a...

Page two and later on this thread might give you some ideas. round-cafe-table-t101305.html By the way, much of the internet stuff about iron staining is nonsense from people who've never done it. So remember the golden rule of online advice...photos or it never happened!

I can't give you a specific time, but it's years and years.

This comes up regularly. Of the scores of top flight cabinet makers that I've known and seen working about half cut on the push stroke and half cut on the pull stroke. So don't sweat it, whatever you choose you're in great company!