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Looks amazing, what a superb space!

The problem Tom is the veneer looks like it's become slightly cockled from the moisture, so it may not glue down cleanly. Then you've got the problem of staining and polishing to match the rest of the piece. The hard truth is, if you're looking for a clean and presentable result, this just...

And I wouldn't ask the English Polisher to do either! :lol:

I agree that this is a job for a professional, your best bet is a reputable antiques restorer, as flattening and re-gluing that lifted veneer is potentially tricky. Regarding "The English Polisher", from what I've seen I wouldn't trust him to restore a pallet let alone a piano! He looks like...

The key point here Oscar is that Bubinga will darken naturally with exposure to UV light and to the air. You may be able to slow that process down by a year or two, but for all practical purposes you can't prevent it. The way I personally look at this is to ask myself how dark a timber has to...

Woodworking is not a cheap hobby. A reasonably comprehensive set of hand tools, including items like sash cramps and bench hardware, that would allow you to tackle most basic to intermediate furniture projects, can easily end up costing you £2,000 or more. Have a read of this thread...

In many respects Yew is a nightmare to work, there are so many fissures and bark inclusions that wastage goes sky high, and it's also quite tricky to finish. It's prone to tear out and wooliness, yet you can't scrape it. However, it does have the redeeming feature (besides looking beautiful!)...

B/BB is a very high grade of plywood. https://www.trada.co.uk/media/3819/birc ... 013_lr.pdf

Go into the "Reference & Information Stickies" at the top of this section. There you'll find a post listing loads of recommended timber yards that represents a lot of work from a lot of people on this forum. Within that post you'll discover Moss & Co in Perivale, a top drawer timber yard from...

Very tidy and professional result. The hardware all looks nicely fitted too, clean and even shut lines and a smoothly operating lock that is neither pushing the lid up nor distorting the box. =D>

The perfect PVA glue layer is just one molecule thick, anything thicker detracts from ultimate strength. So don't worry about leaving space for PVA! UF and Epoxy adhesives are slightly different, when doing lamination work I will sometimes leave a tiny allowance for glue thickness, but that's...

One of the key questions you have to answer when finishing is how dark does timber have to be before you're no longer bothered by the risk of darkening/yellowing? The answer can only ever be a personal choice, but over the years I've done masses of tests like these, in my opinion (and let me...

I don't use a block plane for shooting, even for end grain shooting on quite small pieces I still use a bench plane. I just prefer the heft of a decent sized bench plane for shooting. I know plenty of professional cabinet makers and I'm in the great majority with this approach. Nothing to stop...

Beautifully neat and tidy, a really professional job; and it's just so pretty that you'll be inspired to do excellent work every time you go into the workshop! =D>

Very nice work. =D>

That's a pretty balanced verdict, I could go with most of that. I do think there are some very special qualities to be found amongst some of the tropical species that you simply can't get from temperate zone trees, however let's be realistic, you can get 80 or 90% of the benefit from temperate...

DTR has nailed it, if the sliding dovetail joint is right at the end of the drawer front, as it normally would be, then it's a really weak joint. It's only really relevant where a drawer front passes across a drawer divider (or "flies over a div", as cabinet makers would generally describe it).

I'd edge joint up a board from straight grained stock so the joint would be invisible, and I'd nest the four components. The cost of scrap wood is trivial compared to the time saved by not having to make formers, machine up lamina, etc. Besides, in my workshop there's no such thing as "scrap"...

What a waste of time all this laminating discussion has been! Cut it from the solid, rough cut on the bandsaw followed by copy routing with a template to ensure four identical components. Massively quicker than laminating and plenty strong enough. Look at the feet on this Shaker "Harvard"...

Hornbeam's starting to flush out some of the "unknown unknowns" that will almost certainly scupper this plan. A 3"x 3" lamination is an absolute whopper for a novice working alone in their shed. The thicker the individual lamina the greater the springback and the greater the force needed to...