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There are loads of different ways of putting boxes together, but here's the method I use the most and which is most relevant to your project. Here's one of my boxes, almost all the boxes I make are variations around this theme, The sides are solid timber. The top is plywood that I've veneered...

That would help, but it's not a route that I want to take. This is my compressor, it's got wheels at the back so you can move it around. That's useful for car tyres or taking it down to the marina to work on my boat, a soundproof box would impair that flexibility and also take a big bite out...

I just hate the noise. It's not only loud it's also got an intrusive, grating tone, plus it kicks in at random intervals and spoils your concentration. I swore that my current workshop would be "air free", but a couple of years ago I gave in and got a compressor. The reason being there are some...

A lot depends on what materials you're working with. If it's solid timber then pretty much anything goes and temporarily glued on cramping blocks will give the very best result. However, mitre jointed carcasses tend not to be made from solid timber. MDF or veneered panels are far more common...

You're both right. You'll often see both drawer fronts and doors fielded and panelled, and yes it does help unify the piece. However, when that's done the drawers fronts would have been designed from the outset to be much taller. If you put an F&P drawer front on that it'd look a bit daft as...

I said I'd shut after my last post but here I am again, I promise this is the very last comment! One option for a table is a Gimson/Barnsley hayrack style, Plenty of these were made during my time at the Barnsley workshop. The chairs they were often mated with were "Clissett" style chairs...

Fair enough; your job, your house, your call! The one thing I would come back on though is the angle of the chair seat. A flat chair seat is an instrument of totrture! As the sitter's back reclines so they're pushed out of the seat, without necessarily being consciously aware of it they'll be...

One guideline for chairs is that they're an awful lot easier to use if they're 5kg or less, in particular children, infirm or elderly users find it more difficult to move their chair inboard of the table as the chair's weight increases. Made from Oak I think these chairs will be well over this...

I've got one rattling around somewhere in the workshop...and it's almost totally unused!. Personally I think it's one of those tools that sounds really useful, but in reality is a bit of a white elephant. The problem is that, unless you maintain masses of downward pressure at the rear, the...

If you're a joiner get a pin meter, if you're a cabinet maker there are advantages in using a pinless. The problem is that a pinless is more expensive for comparable performance. Most of the professional furniture making workshops I know use either a Lignomat pinless or a Wagner pinless...

I use both the 500 and 700 dominoes, they're both spot on. If it's not right then return it, why pay Festool money if you're not getting Festool quality? To put things in perspective though, there's a 500 at the Barnsley workshops that regularly gets used on £50,000 plus pieces of furniture...

+1 Here's my version, One of the many advantages of this style of shooting board is that by running along the bench, instead of across the bench, it can be that bit longer, which makes it much more suitable for long grain shooting as well as end grain shooting. No disrespect to the chap in...

Water based poly varnish is much more susceptible to staining than Osmo PolyX. It also tends to be quite soft so will burnish up to a gloss before too long. Osmo Raw may well be you best bet. But don't guess, Osmo sell small sample sachets for not much money, so test first on some scrap and be...

Open a dispute. As a beginner you need a fully functioning plane. There are likely to be all sorts of teething problems that you'll encounter as you learn to use a plane, if there's a question mark over the quality of the plane repair you'll never know if the problem is down to your lack of...

Top man Cordy!

That's a really good point, and one I hadn't considered. If Derek had used the "undercutting" approach to dovetailing that I've seen recommended, then he'd have had the depressing experience of seeing gaps open up as he planed the round over.

That's a plan...but it's not quite the best plan! Better that you do exactly what you suggest, but then lay that assembly on top of a full size plan and check the angles on the top rail are positioning the legs exactly where they need to be. Do that and you've got a chance to tweak the tenon...

750mm is pretty long...and 135Kg is pretty heavy! I'd fit some stretchers/rails around the bottom, but fitting rails into tapered legs can get a bit tricky. Not really tricky, just a bit tricky! You'll need a full size plan or rod and you'll need to work slowly and carefully. Good luck!

I've used the Tormek and the Sorby Pro-Edge, as well as loads of different traditional power wheel grinders over the years. Tormek is very reliable to use with an outstanding jig system, but it's really, really slow. Like lose the will to live slow, especially with modern steels. The super...

I'd never have thought to dovetail then shape. Very ingenious! That saves a pig of a lamination job. =D> I did a short WIP on making mitred dovetails which can be read here, how-to-cut-mitred-or-mitre-dovetails-wip-t112467.html?hilit=how%20to%20cut%20mitred%20mitre%20dovetails%20WIP We're...