Search results

I use those, like most Wealden tooling they're excellent. Incidentally, using a shorter copy routing bit (rather than the standard kitchen fitters super long jobs), can be a lot safer when working on a template cut cramped to the edge of your bench.

Trying to learn to work wood, using salvaged bits and pieces, is turning an interesting challenge into a sweaty, frustrating, pig of a job. At the same time as learning the basics you'll be compensating for your lack of skill in dimensioning rough sawn timber, meaning you'll be struggling with...

I'm struggling to visualise this. Is it coopered work, ie like the way barrels are made with bevel edged staves that butt up against each other to form a curve?

That Lignomat is also the one I've used for quite a few years. I've found it reliable, accurate, and consistent. Nearly every cabinet making workshop I know uses either a pinless Wagner (if they're flush with cash!) or a pinless Lignomat (if they're not!). Joinery workshops are generally...

Loads about Record and Stanley laminated irons here, record-stanley-laminated-plane-irons-t106851.html

If the machinist is a careful worker and knows what they're doing they'll flip the board over after each pass, that way they work down to the final dimension in stages and removing equal amounts of timber from each side. That at least is the convention in furniture making, there are joinery...

Very well spotted! They were moved and rebuilt across the lane about two or three years ago.

Kiln dried timber is taken down to a lower moisture content than air dried timber will ever realistically achieve. Consequently kilned timber undergoes permanent changes at the cellular level which rarely happens with air drying. These changes prevent it from ever again taking up as much...

"In stick" is when you store timber separated by wood sticks, say about 15mm x 15mm in cross section. The purpose is to allow air to circulate entirely around the wood, preventing it becoming drier on one side than another. You can place both rough sawn boards as well as finished components in...

Interesting question, here are a few things to consider, -I'd recommend almost every woodworker should try and work with as limited range of hardwoods as possible, for beginning furniture makers that might mean just two or three species. That way you can build up a stock of timbers in different...

You're not far wrong, I've lived in this country most of my life. I sometimes think about going back, but Vancouver house prices are crazier than London and the weather's certainly no better!

That I don't get. Normally, everyone wants to differentiate themselves from their neighbours. So Canada celebrates the monarchy because the US is a republic. Australia is borderline republican so New Zealand seem that bit more monarchist. I guess it's just sensible business practise by Rob...

I'm Canadian. Or rather I'm duel nationality, Canadian and British. Rob Cosman sounds 99% pure Canuk to my ear, it'd be 100% except he's east coast and my family are all west coast!

I've never laid parquet flooring Froggy so I haven't a clue, but I've seen masses of salvaged parquet tiles in salvage yards, and it often has a really thick, black, tar-like adhesive on the back. No idea what it is, but it's certainly more than a squirt of PVA!

There's a lot of sense in Deema's suggestion of trying them out. A shoulder plane is much more of a precision instrument than a bench plane, and what's more a shoulder plane will probably be unfixable if you end up with a dog. The critical problem is that the sole and the top surface of the...

Do you have some kind of powered grinder? If the answer's no then ask yourself how you'll completely regrind a toll that's been nicked? Or how you'll grind a tool after say eight or ten normal honing when the primary bevel needs re-instating? And if you're using tools made from really tough...

It's really not necessary with Macassar Ebony because it's a fairly fine grained timber, so there's not much grain filling required in order to get a mirror finish. Just go straight to shellac and you'll be fine. If you're not comfortable french polishing then a sanding sealer followed by a hard...

No, it's not hot melt glue! It's hide glue, heated up in a bain marie type arrangement and used at just about the hottest temperature your hand can stand.

Yes, this is done as a matter of course when using hot hide glue to hammer veneer. You basically apply glue both sides of the veneer, ostensibly so moisture is equalised on both sides to minimise curling or cockling, but it also acts as a grain filler and, in the case of burr veneers, helps deal...

I've just found a sketch that illustrates the constructional principles, apologies that it's bit rough but I think I've captured the important details,