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The best size of shoulder plane for you is the size that you personally feel most comfortable with. I trained in the British tradition of cabinet making which tends towards a larger shoulder plane, it's an expensive tool so until very recently most makers would only ever own one. The logic went...

Here's the problem with the shim on the shooting board idea. You'd still have to check that the plane's lateral lever is correctly positioned. So why not get rid of the shim entirely and simply set the 1.5 degree bevel angle using the lateral lever in the first place?

All looks really rather good to me! =D>

+1 That's exactly what I find, you think you've got something that you can rely on and then it starts giving random beeps! I'll follow this thread with interest, if there's something out there that you can absolutely count on to locate stud work then I'd be willing to spend a bit more, the...

The practical difference between rip and crosscut is pretty small, at least in the finer saw sizes. For proof of that you need look no further than the way dovetails are cut, there's a small cross cut on the tail board to accommodate the half pin, but no-one (and I mean absolutely no-one) puts...

The average hobbyist doesn't want an inventory of different stains for different sized jobs, they want one stain that's suitable for both large and small, and that means water based wins out over spirit based.

It's one thing using spirit stain on a picture frame, even a complete beginner could maintain a wet edge right around a job like that. But the problem on most furniture making projects is it's difficult to maintain a wet edge. Personally I'd recommend a water based stain for this reason, it...

+1 It's one of woodworking's great paradoxes. Experienced makers with the skills and equipment to handle iffy timber, usually work only with decent stuff. But newbies, who need all the help they can get, are often found struggling with the rubbish, cantankerous wood.

Going from in-cannel to out-cannel isn't too arduous with a power grinding wheel or linisher, it's no different to re-profiling a turning gouge. But going the opposite direction would be a nightmare! The woodworker's gouges I own all have the bevel 100% on one side or the other, and that's how...

Brilliant!

Isn't that comparing apples with pears? Presumably the bloke building the Dragon was planking over ribs/frames, so no glue-up challenges, where as the original poster faces a quite tricky cramping and gluing job. Furthermore the Dragon looks like carvel construction, so it's far from gap free...

Yes, that's what I'd do. Make a little angle setting reference piece out of 6mm MDF, use run/rise to set the angle and you can hit a tenth of a degree. Then use that in conjunction with the lateral lever on the plane to set the required angle. You just need to make sure you've honed your plane...

A number of those frames are basically a plastic foil wrapped over a Lime or Poplar frame. Take a look at the back, the foil won't be wrapped all the way around because it's too expensive, so if you see timber peaking out then you know it's foil, which will of course restrict your finishing options.

Unfortunately "Planed All Round" isn't the same thing as planed straight and true all round. You might get lucky or you might not, it's just the luck of the draw I'm afraid. I'd always advise any aspiring woodworker to buy rough sawn timber and learn how to dimension and square the timber...

Here's the Stanley 386 I often use for this kind of work, It works pretty well, although the depth of the tool/fence means there's a minimum width for components. You say your components are 63mm wide, plus you'll need say another 12mm to secure in a vice, meaning you'll need a fence that's...

^^^^^^^^^^^ What he said. I was okay until TB Table Saw Pt 2 came up, but that's well out of order!

Yes, I don't think that'll be a problem. There's normally a counterweight to balance the head, on most morticers there's a way of securing it to stop it flopping around in transit. But some blankets or packing stuffed up the column once the base is off should do the job. Nice machine, did it...

Absolutely impeccable. =D>

Top marks Biliphuster for tackling a chest of drawers, excellent project! =D> Are you sorted for the 50mm thick Walnut that you'll need for those feet? If not PM me, I can let you have 50mm stuff in either English Walnut or American Black Walnut.