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Will that be any stronger than a straightforward butt joint, especially if the butt joint is biscuited or dowelled? It's a genuine question, I really don't know, I'm a solid timber cabinet maker so I don't have that much sheet goods experience. However, I get the impression that rebates on MDF...

Just to illustrate the point, here are two bottles of meths. They both started out the same purple colour, but then the one on the right had the sunbathing treatment!

I agree with Marcros, shellac is an excellent finish for boxes, and super blonde shellac is superb over paler timbers. I know some cabinet makers who are concerned that the purple dye used in methylated spirits will add a tinge. Personally I don't find that a problem, but if you're still...

I'm surprised to read this, I've finished plenty of Cherry with Osmo and I've never found lack of grip/excessive slipperiness to be a problem. Osmo was originally developed for finishing wooden floors, it really isn't all that slippery. To be honest I doubt you'll find a finish that, on its own...

On the Lime they look like pin knots, the traces of where a twig once grew.

I didn't show the end result, here's the final box. I can batch these out in next to no time,

I do something similar with a slotting blade in a spindle moulder. Here's the box in a simple jig being run past the cutter, Here's the result, Cutting the Ebony keys, just as quick using a back saw Keys glued in place, You could do something similar with an arbor and a slot cutter in...

Yes, 7mm is a bit on the thin side. It would be okay if the woodworker selected and dimensioned his or her own timber. Because then they'd pick out straight grained, quarter sawn stuff,. And they'd machine or hand plane it down in careful stages over a couple of weeks, always removing material...

+1 There's a lot of love on this forum for old Record or Stanley planes. And once sorted out that's entirely justified, they're excellent tools and were all that outstanding craftsmen like Alan Peters ever needed. However, there's another fact which needs to be recognised. Often both the plane...

I've taken a look at his videos and rather than bearings he uses ceramic guide bushes on his bandsaw. I have exactly the same set up and some sparking is pretty much inevitable, it looks far worse on a video than in real life!

Brilliant stuff!

Depends what you want it for. The Makita (or indeed a DeWalt or any other mid range brands) will do almost everything that a woodworker might ever want. Almost, but not quite everything For example I regularly use a router to cut 1mm wide grooves for inlay work. This job might occur after...

+1 That or go and get a longer board. Some sort of cobbled together work-around would be just awful.

Exactly as Marcros said. But it has to be both, sipo dominos and a proper adhesive like Cascamite. If you just use one then you might as well not bother and use neither, as your table will still fall apart after a year or two. One more thing, for maximum strength you should apply glue to both...

One problem you may face in making a 2.8m hardwood table is the weight. I'm fairly strong, but the table top alone for a table of that size is too much for me to lift once it's fully glued up. If there are two of you in the workshop it's no problem, but for a guy working on his own it's too big.

Here in the New Forest you pay about £140-150 for a cord of firewood, that's 128 cubic foot or about one Transit tipper van load. That's split and seasoned and cut into 10" logs. So a shade over £1 per cubic foot. I'll pay £40-50 per cubic foot for bright white, kilned, furniture grade...

Or the boards have been laid down on the ground and have rested on gravel or discarded old screws etc. When I was training as a cabinet maker it was beaten into us that as a project progresses you become ever more obsessive about laying freshly shaken blankets or scraps of leather down on the...

You raise an interesting point. The reason I emphasised the thickness of the apron is because the width (the top to bottom measurement) is constrained by the simple ergonomics of table design. You don't want the top of the table to be much higher than about 30", in fact if the table will be...

I've made several tables at this length, four legs is perfectly adequate provided the side aprons rails are at least 30mm thick. Your proposed six leg plan has a few serious problems though. You might get away with that centre joint for a few years in a very quiet household, but two or three...

Any thoughts on dating Marples chisels, the ones with the split proof handles? These are what I'm talking about, I was doing a site job recently and quite a few guys on the job had the exact same chisels. Except they weren't exactly the same. Some were branded "Marples" with no logo, Others...