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Bill, please don't inlay or carve that piece of Bog Oak. Bog Oak is a rapidly diminishing timber, most of the good stuff has already come out of the farm lands of East Anglia and Western Ireland. Hamish Low, the guy who basically figured out how to reliably process and dry Bog Oak, is convinced...

Incidentally, the type of Rosewood that was used for tools before the second world war isn't, for all practical purposes, commercially available today. Here's a typical pre-war tool handle made from Indian Rosewood, On the right of this photo you can see what passes for Indian Rosewood...

Outstanding, absolutely outstanding! Thanks for posting.

Robbo, you may be right but I'm not 100% sure. I have the Clico 539 No 1 sharpening set and also the Clico 539 No 2 set. They're both imperial, both cover the same range of 1/4" to 1/2" chisels, but there's a note on the No 1 set to say use it with Sedgwick chisels, and as I have a Sedgwick...

Very nice job Mark. =D> If you can't find any Rippled Sycamore locally then drop me a PM.

There's "blonde shellac" and then there's "blonde shellac". Like loads of finishing products there's little in the way of standards or benchmarks. You've just got to hunt around for something that meets your personal requirements. Incidentally I know plenty of makers who knock themselves out...

Rippled Sycamore is by far the most common decoratively figured timber that you'll find in the UK. Hang around enough timber yards and before too long you'll find some and as often as not at standard Sycamore prices to boot. But if that's not possible then try calling Timberline...

I use Coldene Castors, https://www.castors-online.co.uk/acatalog/ I'm sure there are other suppliers equally good, but the key thing is to avoid the ultra cheap castors that you'll find. By and large they are monumentally carp! So unless you're paying Coldene type prices then don't expect...

I've been working on an old wooden boat recently, Pine on Oak frames, built in 1947. Judging on how sound the timbers are I'd simply recommend scraping down every year or two and regular applications of varnish!

Very nice job! The escutcheon and the suede lining can be quite tricky to execute well, but they both look exceptionally tidy. =D>

What a super project, and very neatly executed. =D> It would be an excellent opportunity for some simple letter carving or a little flourish of chip carving.

I think that a Cherry drawer front with Oak drawer sides (and C-of-L bottom) is a winning combination, it's one I use all the time. Here are some photos of my drawers so you can make up your own mind if it works for you, Only thing I'd say is that it's traditional to make the drawer back...

Buying Cedar of Lebanon for drawer bottoms is all about finding a timber yard that stocks the 15mm thick C.o.L boards that are processed in vast quantities for shingles. Because it's a massive tree you get massive boards, often a metre wide or more. They're not expensive and if you ask nicely...

If you can possibly live with the current finish then you should absolutely leave well alone. G Plan is one of the very, very few parts of the antique/used furniture market that's actually going up in value. But the quickest way of turning your appreciating asset into a pile of valueless...

If you're making furniture to the very highest standards then it's useful to have a couple of dead flat chisels, but you only need a couple. Most times you can get away with something that's not absolutely flat so I wouldn't sweat this too much.

Water based poly gives pretty good protection against water spills, but they generally provide only very low protection against fruit juice or red wine spills. And I mean REALLY low, like permanent staining unless the spill is wiped up within a second or two. This is what Polyvine looks like...

Interesting article, thanks for posting.

Nice job. And no wonder Douggie Fir's becoming such a fashionable timber, it looks absolutely perfect for that project! Speedy recovery!

Mike G had it right when he said put it in a vice. Professional woodworkers tend to use shooting boards for smaller pieces, and stick larger stuff in a vice. The workpiece on a shooting board tends to creep during the cut, not an issue on small sections but potentially a problem on bigger...

Walnut is sold "sap no fault", consequently your tree illustrates why Walnut is best bought in person after a visual check! Pretty much the only timber yard I can think of that sells "graded" Walnut is English Woodland Timber in Sussex, and even they include a fair bit of sap in their top grade...