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Sixteen braked castors (four sets of four castors), 75mm wheel diameter, rated for 70Kg load per castor. New and unused. I use these in my own workshop and they've performed very well. £25 for the lot. Collect only, Hampshire on the south coast, mid way between Southampton and Bournemouth.

I take your point. Interestingly I seem to recall some Chinese furniture that was built much the same way.

Congratulations on a very clean and professional looking job, those finger joints are impeccable!

You'll regret it if you do. A better approach is to shim one of the fences, infinitely adjustable and totally reversible if you want to cut your dovetails old school.

I completely agree, not bad at all!

Smashing job! The great thing about dovetails is that even with the odd gap they are still unbelievably strong joints. In that respect they're way better than say mortice and tenons, which need to be pretty snug to be even adequately strong.

Take my advice with a pinch of salt because I'm a cabinet maker rather than a joiner, but when it comes to a three way joint there are two obvious options. First is a three way mitre joint, the joint that you sometimes see at the corners of wooden framed, glass display cabinets. It's also...

Brilliant!

I'm away from the workshop at the moment, but I'm pretty sure I've got one of those. I'll check later this afternoon when I'm back, and if it is there then it's yours!

This is one of those zombie myths that refuses to die. My Felder saw comes with a dado arbor, indeed Felder also sell a full range of different dado stacks, dado zero clearance inserts, and the saw's manual gives full instructions for dado operations. All this despite Felder being about as...

In 90% of applications I'm a proponent of gluing both the tenon and the mortice. Festool did some tests once and claimed 30% additional joint strength by doing this. However, when it comes to biscuits I would only ever glue the mortice. The biscuit is designed to swell from the water in PVA...

I guess it all comes down to how you define "burnt". Decent laser work certainly doesn't leave scorched edges, but on really pale timbers, like Holly or Arctic Sycamore, you can see this faint pale brown tint right at the very edge. Burnt is the wrong word for it, it's just a faint...

I've a bit of experience with the Bessey versions, plus an even more expensive edge clamp called a Kantenfix. I tend to use them less for applying lipping and more for awkward glue ups, such as you'll often find on chairs or for example in this application, which was side tables that I made with...

There's a debate currently raging in the custom made furniture and marquetry worlds. Laser cutting radically changes the cost structure of marquetry decorated furniture, as well as reducing the skills necessary for the most intricate work. Consequently there's been an explosion of marquetry led...

Another vote for Padauk (pronounced PADOOK). But, as Marcros said, using many of these boldly coloured timbers for their colour is a bit of a wild goose chase. Sure, you get the Instagram wow factor, but ten years later it's just a muddy brown. If you want a timber that actually improves with...

My mistake, I thought the OP was cutting finished veneers with a bandsaw, I see now he was trying to make veneers with a bandsaw.

A cheap bobbin sander is just about the only hobby grade machine in my commercial furniture workshop. It's not brilliant, but it just about gets the job done. More important than the machine IMO is the quality of the abrasive. It's like most woodworking machines, it's the tooling that is...

You're on the right track, just a few details, 1. There will be glue squeeze out, so you'll need a sheet of plastic top and bottom to prevent the veneer ply sticking to the press platen boards. 2. You say fibreglass coated, make sure there's no texture or it'll "imprint" onto your veneer ply...

Capital Crispin is one of Europe's premiere veneer merchants, it's an Aladdin's Cave of amazing timbers and if you're ever in London's east end it's well worth a trip. But I can't remember ever seeing anything there less than a full leaf. I think your best bet is a company called Original...

With respect, I'm not sure Yojevol that you're correct in saying the results will still be reliable. I've been using Cascamite for forty years, both as a hobbyist and professionally. I'm pretty confident that I'm handling the stuff correctly, but I can absolutely attest that there's something...