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I showed a photo on another thread of this table, which I make fairly frequently, It's a copy of a piece made in the Harvard Shaker Settlement, it was probably originally intended as a sewing table. There's a measured drawing in John G Shea's book "Making Authentic Shaker Furniture" I had a...

Rather than create a digression on Steve's post, I'll start a new thread!

Yes, they do. I try very hard to incorporate splines, or something similar, in all my mitre joints. On picture frames/mirrors, nothing looks worse than the hairline gap that can open up over time, it generally gets filled with household grime, normal dusting/wiping will pack any dust into the...

Hello Steve, going back to the point about furniture strength, I'm frequently surprised at just how strong even quite spindly looking pieces can be, just think about chairs carrying hefty blokes for year after year. This is a Shaker piece that I make fairly regularly, When I first made it I...

I trained at the Edward Barnsley Workshops. You weren't allowed near machines for about 6-8 months, but I suspect that was more about their particular syllabus than safety issues. After that you had to be signed off on each individual machine. We were given an introduction to each machine...

Sorry Steve but it really is collect only.

The scorching element brings all sorts of challenges. Firstly all the adhesives that you're likely to use, from epoxy to PVA, are heat sensitive. Then you've got the fact that scorching around an edge is much more aggressive than scorching a flat surface (when I scorch and iron stain furniture...

This gets a bit contentious. Really thick (up to about 3/16"), saw cut veneers we're often laid onto soft wood substrates for antique furniture making, and even today you have engineered wood floors where similar thickness veneers are laid onto ply cores. BUT, none of that means you'll get away...

Maybe I'm being a bit too harsh, it's not for example as absolutely awful and utterly unusable as say Horse Chestnut, but as a furniture wood it's just not a patch on White Oak. It's a bit wooly and soft, the grain is pretty bland, and stability can be questionable. As a joinery timber it's...

Lot's of people are in a similar position, whenever I exhibit my furniture at various shows I'll often get hobby woodworkers popping over for a chat, and they always have exactly the same two questions. How do you sharpen your tools, and where do you get your wood! Buying hardwood sight unseen...

I've seen library shelving in Oak, Pine, Walnut, Cedar, Sycamore, and Sweet Chestnut, there's probably others that I've forgotten about! They all seem to have worked out well enough. Regarding finishes, there a dizzying range of possibilities. For the shelves themselves I personally like a...

I'm thinking back to antique dressers that I've seen and also more contemporary versions that I've encountered in various workshops. In every case that I can recall there's always been a floor. Very nice project by the way, kudos for tackling it so efficiently without a table saw.

For a first attempt at dovetailing that is extremely impressive! 👏 Whats even more impressive is for someone so new to woodworking to dig deep and find the courage to even have a go at dovetailing. When I exhibit my furniture at shows I get to speak to plenty of hobby woodworkers, they often...

Really nice job. Impressive technically, thoroughly thought through before picking up tools, and also a clever deployment of some exceptional timber. 👏

+1 I've known professional workshops with a policy not to run boards through the thicknesser or planer that have rested on outside ground. And that's in the context of quick change Tersa blocks, if you're lucky enough to have a spiral block then I'd be wary about ever using pallet wood.

Okay King Aether, they're yours. If you want I'll bundle up some interesting hardwood off-cuts with them, PM with some more info info on your woodworking interests so that I can put together something you'll like!

Personally I wouldn't bother with anything less than 1/2" in a router table. What's the point drilling to attach a small router that's just too restrictive. Having said that I managed for years with a 1/4" Elu 96 in a titchy router table and produced an awful lot of furniture that I'm still...

I've used iron staining on a few different timbers, both timbers rich in tannin like Oak, and timbers that are low in tannin. The bottom line is that tannins evaporate quite quickly from the sawn surface, so even on Oak, unless it's a virgin surface fresh from the tool, you'll need to prime the...

They're a bit too awkward to wrap and post, hence the give away price for collection!

Cast iron 20" bed extension for Nova Lathe (Teknatools). Part number 55195. New and unused, still in original box. This for Nova DVR XP and Nova 1624-44 lathes. No longer available, so if you have one of these lathes this is your only chance to extend the bed length. Original cost £200...