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Invest in a miter protractor. The aluminum ones like Starrett are pricey but better than the plastic. You can then read the exact cutting angle for the saw on each corner.

My fault but the illustration came after my post. That ' ladder ' design is fine as long as the joints are strong enough to prevent racking.. It's in the nature of things that loads on shelves increase as the years go on but the OSB should be fine as it's well supported.

Been a fan of Subaru for a while now and I am on my third Forrester. It's only when you are bombing down the motorway do you appreciate the ultra smooth engine. The flat boxer engine and four wheel drive for me is the ultimate internal combustion engine design. Mind you I had to switch to diesel...

You give two lengths of 2.4 m and 50 cm. Did you mean 50 cm depth ? I have a damp shed as well and used plain rough sawn 3/4" spruce with no problems. The important thing is use good industrial brackets spaced apart such that they will not allow any sagging. If you are drilling into concrete...

Yes, he is backrouting , moving the router too slowly and only using half the baseplate. It's going to tip over at some stage. Instinctively this is a job for the router table. Lastly sharpening a 20 year old bit is probably a false economy.

Didn't catch what they are made from but I'm guessing plastic. Only useful if you have no clamps. I use the plywood biscuits formerly known as Tanselli. You will snap a conventional biscuit across the diagonal but certainly not a plywood biscuit. The Domino has replaced biscuits to some extent...

My first saw was a Scheppach table/ miter saw very similar to this. The table allows ripping of small boards up to about 2 " thick which beats hand cutting everytime. As a starter saw it should do the basics . Blade guarding is minimal so have plenty of pushsticks to hand.

If you can find a Lamello Top 10 for £100 then grab it. The adjusting knob is very handy. All joiners should be used with dust extraction and the Lamello needs a plastic gizmo to attach to it's oval shaped outlet. As for strength they should be fine but I would buy the Sliverline plywood...

Dowels are a low budget method but don't forget you ideally need a set of clamps to bring the joints together. If you could invest in a ( cheap ) biscuit joiner then you could use Lamello Clamex S 20 plates which are more than strong enough. Not exactly cheap either but clean and can be...

Put your money into the largest possible shed. Heat it in the winter. As the years go by it will fill up and you will congratulate yourself on a wise decision however painful it was financially.

Nice work and a great bit of salvage. I'm surprised there is little contrast between the Elm and the Apple.

No idea. It has the Hegner hold down just to the left it which is well worth having.

An angle grinder would have that off in a few seconds. Incidentally you can get security screws which only tighten clockwise. They cannot be undone with a screwdriver.

Don't forget the back of the blade is rising and while not actually cutting it can pinch the sides of the cut and kick it up .Most kickbacks are however caused by short pieces twisting in the cut allowing the back of the blade to grab it. I have an American saw with accessories and it is the...

I'm 30 years using a tablesaw and no injuries so far. A few danger points are : 1 Cutting thick boards over 2" especially Iroko. The twisted grain can pinch the blade and kickback. You will feel resistance and possibly see burning. Stop immediately and take shallow cuts instead.. 2 . Cutting...

My thoughts are : 1 Brand loyalty is never a good idea. The Chinese make mediocre power tools that are rebranded to look like western tools. They will all eventually fail.. 2 We buy with our eyes not our head. If you have a problem doing something then mull over it for a week or two. A solution...

Lee Valley in Canada sell a twin router bit set that routs a crescent shaped edge on the door and a convex shaped edge on solid wood to match. The join is completely invisible but still solid wood. Worth the investment assuming you have a router table.

I recently invested in a Jessem table saw miter fence. Apart from being accurate it will clamp the wood and cut to a stop up to 46". A stop is essential in my view - it stops the wood sliding laterally as well.

Ideally a quality miter fence on the table saw set to 45 degrees. Check that the blade is perfectly at 90 to the table with a digital inclinometer and the wood should be clamped down. Failing that either option on the miter saw will work but again the wood should be clamped down.

A 2B pencil. Harder pencil marks can be a bu##er to remove.