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Your blades are set too high. Reset them by putting a lath on the outfeed table and rotate the block rearwards until the blades just 'kiss' it. The usual advice to rotate the block until the lath moves back 6mm or so never works for me. This assumes you have a planer/thicknesser. Looking at the...

Why linen and not canvas ? Is it an established technique ? Rounding the tenons is a good idea, do they run freely in the radiused groove .? I have seen some American designs use a dowel in the ends of the slats.

I always find the one piece rawlplugs too thin. I agree. 6 mm seems very large for the uprights although you can enlarge the countersink as I mentioned above using a bit designed for metal. I never found the single piece rawlplugs satisfactory - they are too thin. The long straw - like...

Yes, you would need to knock off the end to gain access. I see they are blind mortises so I would make a matching template and use a top bearing mounted cutter to clean it all out. If you make an accurate template the mortise will not enlarge. I presume you will use the existing slats to go back...

Matching the screw to the rawlplug can be a real faff. I've gone over to using concrete screws. Just drill a 6 mm hole and the screw drives in directly. I'm using old Spax screws which means the upright holes need a little enlarging and countersinking with a metal bit. It's still worth it for a...

A sharp chisel is your best option unless you want to go down the router route.That splintered bit can simply be glued back in place. Is it a Lutyens bench ?

If the blade is warped you will get very ragged cuts. Is it new or secondhand. ? If the latter and it is taking that long to wind up I would suspect the brushes are worn down and metal may be grinding on the armature. Its not too hard to check as long as you have a good set of screwdriver bits...

I think its a bit like Padauk - it fades to a muddy brown after a year or so. It would be interesting to experiment with staining before making the piece.

Steam it with a domestic iron and wet cloth. Most of the indentations will fill out. When dry, sand it by hand and then maybe a little wax. ?

They are fine in theory but you are tempted to cut 'sideways' and the blade forms a bow, rounding over the piece. A conventional blade will bow a little but it doesn't matter as you are pushing into the cut so there is no rounding over.

I'm guessing that will consume about 10% of a 4 x 8 sheet and have you seen the price of marine ply. ! Pressure treated softwood would be my choice with a metal roof of some kind.

Bowl gouge but be careful. I once snapped off the end of a Crown bowl gauge because it was projecting about 70mm. I bought two curved tool rests after that.

The late Paul Richardson started F+C with good intentions. He aimed it at the'bloke in the shed' ( like most of us.) They began to drift away in the naughties by dropping the letters page and articles by jobbing cabinetmakers. With the loss of the Cheltenham exhiition it's now hard to see what...

Well done. Is that a 5/8 " arbour ? You may have to shop around for blades but it looks like it will take a dado set. ?

I have to second Doug71 above and recommend flush doors. I use them for shelving and they are ideal, being light and very strong. They can be cut down on the tablesaw and reinforced with a batten glued between the outer skins.Being 32 "/ 802 mm wide you will get four lengths at 200 mm wide out...

Its going to be an expensive job no matter how you approach it. I presume you mean using completely invisible hardware ? I did one job like this and the crucial thing is that your brackets are adjustable. I see loads of brackets online but they are not adjustable and are difficult to mount...

F+C started as a good magazine aimed at the amateur who wants to do good quality work. I have the entire collection from issue 3. I think they lost their way in the last few years. The standard of design is nothing as good as it was pre 2000 and the articles were lazy and poorly researched. As...

Ditto. You will find that the joint comes apart with a few taps of a hammer. Its best not to use a PVA glue on mitres as they will slide and the glue actually has a definite but visible glue line. Use a mitre bond cyanoacrylate glue instead and reinforce with splines.

Well done for trying to harvest the tree. We should all stop wasting wood these days - after all it will probably be put through an industrial shredder. Out of curiosity what have you got to convert them into planks ? Short of a bandsaw mill its going to be hard to convert the main trunk at...

I take your point and without a workshop its going to be difficult reducing 8 x 4 sheets of anything. Softwood shelving pre cut and sanded is probably going to be your best option if not the cheapest.