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The Georgians usually ran a vent pipe underground from the pantry to the North side of the house. Even they knew the value of ventilation.

Great piece of work, well done. Now I know where my next TV is going........... :p

I'd invest in a new set of blades.or get them professionally sharpened.They can reduce in width from repeated sharpenings - I found the blades for my Scheppach had gone from 19 to 13 mm and were difficult to sharpen. ( I have a jig for my Scheppach whetsone sharpener ) I also find that using the...

Just caught episode one of this. Don't want to knock the idea but they sure made life hard for the participants. One lady had to hand sand 120 tambour slats to 'get rid of saw marks '- I'm sure I saw a P/T lying about. ! There were a lot of elementary mistakes and a lot was left out. How did...

I tend to use those cheap brass cylinder supports but put two rubber O rings on them - it stops the glass from sliding. A few extra holes will give you versatility.

The glass will determine the overall dimensions as obviously it can't be cut. You seem to be making a glass topped drawer - or is it a shelf ? Its hard to see how you can avoid seeing the joint - either a simple butt joint with dowels will work or a mitred joint if you can insert a small biscuit...

As far as I know no one makes an aftermarket adjustable fence for small tables as they need a combination of precision and rigidity. You don't need one until you start routing profiles like a bullnose edge which will take a mm or two off the overall width. I tried to make one using a microfence...

Something like oak veneered ply will be a lot more stable and stronger. If you have a disc sander it is easy to make a small jig to manually turn a circle with a small hole on one side to pivot the piece around. Tables for disc sanders are adjustable and could do a chamfer on each side...

Ouch .. you are wasting 17 mm thick wood with every board. I would only buy 52 mm because I have a Hammer bandsaw and would rip it down to about 40 mm + 12 mm, You will always find a use for a piece of 12 mm thick wood.!

Its a challenging art form ! Accuracy is paramount starting with a good mitre saw and a 60 tooth blade if possible - its more accurate than sanding endgrain on the disc sander. You are aiming to produce two semicircular rings initially with as little deviation as possible. I find that using a...

I doubt you will get a sliding table saw in there but good luck, Look for a table saw that has a fold down table on the right - at least it won't be taking up space in between processing sheet goods.

I can't get on without a digital vernier but have gone through about six in recent years - my last cheap Chinese job lasted eight months. I finally splurged about £80 to buy a Mitutoya off Amazon. Made in Japan of course. The difference in quality is amazing, Finally I can trust the readings...

Veritas make a 4mm dowel cutter - see Axminster. I take it these are just decoration and not used in joinery of any kind. ?

An old builder once told me - ' never use a nail when you can use a screw' :rolleyes: Part of life's great learning curve.

Yes, getting the ideal router table setup can be expensive. You can buy a Jessem table made of phenolic resin on its own or make one with 18 mm ply and an insert. All the Jessem stuff is in short supply at the moment.

Fences that protrude unequally can a problem. If the front half of the fence is slightly set back the piece 'falls off ' the back fence into the router cutter and forms a snipe. However, don't forget that some bits like a bullnose will take a mm or two off the entire width of the piece so some...

I have a woodburning stove and its more useful for disposing of rubbish than anything else. It takes a while to heat up and all the heat seems to accumulate under the roof. I also don't like locking up the shed in the evening with a fire going in the stove. ( Its all in the head . I know ;) )...

For the endgrain segments I always use a mitre bond instant set glue as it will leave no glue line. After all you only want to make the rings strong enough to handle them while you sand the endgrain. For the main glue up I use standard Titebond yellow glue as it has a fairly quick 'grab'. PVA's...

Can you access the underside. ? I would think a 6mm spiral cutter with a bottom bearing would give a clean cut with the template mounted underneath. ( I haven't ever seen a top bearing spiral cutter ) You should still 'backrout' ie go clockwise around the hole.