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Ha Ha...I think you will get lots of replies on here. They are an extremely useful tool as long as they are used properly. They are fine for faceframes, basic boxes and shelving etc. However they don't look very nice and are hopeless in any joint that is stressed. On balance, if you get one you...

I use a 3M paint and varnish stripper wheel. It gets into every nook and cranny, removing rust and gunk. However finding them online is a bit hit and miss - Amazon occasionally have them.

I would say get a 12" saw and put a quality blade into it. You can cut mitres vertically up to about 100mm or more which saves having to tilt the saw over to 45". If you are not tilting the saw then you can put on a ply fence with zero clearance which makes it a lot safer for cutting small...

And when it eventually gives up the motors are readily available for about £60. I replaced one last year.

The brief was a bit misleading. What is a 'Garden Shed' anyway ? I think Misti won because the judges liked the seating although it was not specified in the brief. She also kept the joinery under control by screwing things together. I think Radha came a cropper by trying to use proper joinery...

Nice design. How did you join the horizontal shelves to the verticals ?

Have you a spreading clamp that will open the joint by a mm or so ? If so a slip of veneer will spread glue on the faces of the joint. Heat some pva glue in the bottle to help the glue flow. Of course you will need to get at least one sash cramp across the joint and you may need to cramp on a...

About 80 % of woodworking is crosscutting accurately. Buy yourself a good 12" miter saw with a 30 cm crosscut and put a 60 tooth blade into it. Yes, you will be down about a grand but you will use it all the time. If you have any change left over buy a Mitutoyo digital vernier - it won't lie to...

I see some people on YouTube simply plunging the Domino into end grain just using a pencil mark. This will introduce errors - I'd consider the the work holding accessory under the fence pretty much essential.

Yellow poplar or Tulipwood all the way. Time to buy yourself a P/T for Xmas ?

It's pippy oak, caused by cattle grazing on new shoots at the base of the tree. Also known as 'cats paw oak' Bog oak is a different wood entirely, looking more like charcoal.

I would think spraying is a must for a professional finish. The trouble is that solvent finishes turn Baltic ply an unattractive ' honey ' colour. You want to retain that blonde appearance at all costs and that means water or acrylic finishes and a good spray booth. At the moment I use the...

They are agile little beggars and mostly nocturnal. I once saw one jump from the ground up to the rafters in my shed - about 8 feet. Having found a few empty traps I concluded that the inertia of the trap was making it jump - and ratty got away. Now I screw the trap down to a piece of 2 x 4...

Baltic ply is hard to work by hand as it tends to crumble even with sharp tools. Loose tenons are the answer but you need pricy machines like the Domino or a router. I would suggest using 10 mm dowels either as a hidden joint or simply run in from the side arms as in the photo.

Peanut butter in the traps is a better option. Otherwise do you know anybody with an air rifle equipped with a night vision scope ?

I bought an Apollo unit at a show once without having done any research and It was the worst purchase I ever made. Almost everything had an orange peel finish - the unit could simply not atomise the varnish.. I appreciate that every model is different but I would try a turbine unit before...

If you can't justify the price of a Domino have a look at the Beadlock system sold by Rockler in the US. I have the pro version made of aluminium and they sadly have moved over to plastic now. it makes M+T joints by drilling only - the loose tenon is 'corrugated 'to fit in the mortise. Not as...

I don't think I saw anybody use a table saw . :LOL: How did Misti cut all those non 45 degree mitre joints !

Never heard of a Memphis school of woodworking but Misti's piece looked like something Freddie Baier would produce. I thought Rhada's piece was the most coherent design - the others lacked finesse and those barrel hinges were not up to the job.

Interesting.I bought a Festool MFK 700 router a few years ago and the baseplate ( made from some kind of plastic laminate ) was buckled. I made a replacement out of hardboard. For a router that is now selling for over £500 their quality control seems a bit lax.:rolleyes: