Search results

If they are going to be painted then pressure treated softwood will do. If you prefer a more upmarket look then Iroko is a good compromise. It will need an exterior preservative of course.

I paid 2K euros but I'm in Ireland. Hammer are the budget wing of Felder so not overpriced.

Have you looked at the Hammer N4400 ? I have one and find it faultless. It has a single phase 4 HP motor although you would have to install a 16 amp socket. It has bolt on extension tables as an extra. Like you I wanted to convert garden trees into useful planks and bought the ' Little Ripper '...

About two years ago I build a black laminate wardrobe for a customer. I would have settled for black ash panel boards but couldn't find them. In my naivety I decided to use those spiral cams that hold most IKEA furniture together. The whole thing was a disaster. First I let the supplier cut the...

Handling panel boards is certainly difficult. I have found that a hollow ground blade in the table saw works best but I don't own a track saw for comparison. If you can find pre cut panels that fit the project then go for it. All the melamine faced boards are tricky to cut and can leave razor...

It looks easy but thee are so many pitfalls, Firstly you must be in control of the project. Asking suppliers to dimension panels is inviting trouble and will cost you. A saw that cuts chip free and dead square cuts is essential. 18 mm stock is preferable - all the 16 mm melamine panels look too...

Do you really want to stain it - if so the question is why ? The occupant won't notice !! For furniture like this with multiple components it's better to give ti a good hardwearing finish. I would spray it to make life easier. The Chestnut range of lacquers are excellent. Heat them in a can of...

Great idea. Leave the splits in place and explain it is part of the drying process and adds character. I might suggest a brass handle rather than steel which will eventually discolour from the tannins in the oak.

A drill in a drill press is essential. You need a supporting scrap under the hole to avoid breakout and position the hole accurately. A hardwood like beech works best as it's virtually splinter free.

Presumably that is 900 mm high and 1200 mm long for horizontal tambour. ? I've made a few tambour desks and found the following. If it's a vertical tambour the front and back should be of equal lengths otherwise the tambour wants to run away and disappear down the back. Cutting an accurate...

I used a Leigh jig for a while for half blind dovetails but found it incredibly fiddly to set up. The dovetails are of course rounded over on the inside to fit into the concave sockets on the pin piece. I bought a Woodrat and never looked back. One tip I would suggest is to find a jig that will...

Roundover bits are available down to a radius of 1 mm. I would just push the pieces along a router table fence with two rubber faced pads. Cut the crossgrain sides first as there may be a little tearout. You will get a more consistent finish than sanding.

Oak will show medullary rays on quarter sawn planks whereas chestnut will not. I would still think it's American White Oak.

Yes, they are made in China and will probably break. Just buy a few UK made turning tools as you need them and they will last a lifetime. I never buy anything made in China now having learnt the hard way. o_O

Nice intro. Get yourself a planer/ thicknesser and a good miter saw and you can make almost anything. If you can find a timber yard that will deliver it's half the battle.

I now realize that a square shape is the optimum - power tools around the periphery and machinery in the center. You need to allow circulation space as well to move the timber around. How did I end up with a long rectangle.? :D

That will close up easily with a waterproof glue. Try a few wedges between the boards otherwise it will have to be taken off and clamped. After that it needs a good sanding and preservative - the choice is endless.

Shame to let it go after all the work that has gone into it. To restore it I think the brown oak panels would have to be removed. the joints tightened and new panels with a 2 mm veneer cut on the bandsaw let in on a rebate. Very tricky to do but someone will appreciate it.

The Bandsaw jig as in post 40 above looks to be very safe and easy to make. You will still have saw marks I would suggest making a simple sanding jig with two snug holes, one to sand one side and the second to sand the opposite side flush, let into a piece of 1/2" plywood. It would be a help to...

I don't think any routers are made with an induction motor - not the handheld routers anyway. Noise is a function of their speed and the condition of the motor brushes. Better quality brands like Makita vibrate less than budget tools and are worth the money IMO.