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Ha Ha, a classic error. ! For all internal measurements like window blinds I've gone over to a Leica laser measure. Absolutely faultless and a lot easier than a tape.

Enjoy that feeling ! The most valuable asset in a workshop is floor space and the next most valuable is wall space. Whatever you buy plan to have it connected to a central extractor - that would be my first priority.

That's Luan faced ply - about the cheapest you will get and very poor quality. Its fine for attaching the French cleats and softwood battens would work well.

I simply don't trust tapes except for rough cutting. For cabinetry work nothing beats 30.60 and 100 cm steel rules.

Do you mean Baltic ply ? I have trouble storing it in my shed. After about a year a green mould develops and it's nearly impossible to sand off. I wouldn't say my shed is ' wet ' - it has block walls and insulation in the roof but I have had to stop storing Baltic ply because of this. Old ply...

If you are going down the legal route then you will have to leave it until you get a resolution. To repair it I would try some warm PVA glue which will flow into the crack and close it up with some sash clamps. The worst thing you do is to start cutting into it to effect a repair - it will all...

If its that restorer from Salvage Hunters he needs to go back to school. Remember the ebonised table mortise and tenon joint he 'restored' by banging a dowel into it. Painful !

One tip I've used is to cut to the ' inside' of the pencil line. If you try to split the line the set on the saw is actually taking too much off either left or right. Of course when I got a Woodrat I abandoned hand cutting. :rolleyes:

For years I swore that Mick Jagger sang 'Well if you ever plan to mow the grass ' - then I heard Chuck Berry sing ' plan to motor west ' ( Route 66 ) :rolleyes:

The beauty of finger joints is the contrast between face and end grain on the front and sides. I imagine half blind finger joints would not look all that attractive. It can be done easily by ripping off a 4- 6 mm piece from the display face of the board , make the finger joints and then re glue...

I traded in my first RAS ( a DeWalt ) for the 24" crosscut model. It was OK but difficult to get square cuts consistently. It helps to have an adjustable table rather than trying to adjust the saw but there is no easy adjustment for the vertical cut. I also found that it would not take a dado...

I tried this when I got my first RAS and quickly gave up. You really need a dedicated table with a fence for stability and even then I found the boards difficult to feed through the saw with a lot of burning. The worst problem is that the cut is upwards, throwing sawdust straight into your face...

If I understand correctly you are starting with a square and want to cut it into a hexagon or octagon ? The problem with green wood is that it moves on cutting and may pinch the blade. Resin also builds up on the blade. The damp sawdust encourages rust on the saw. If you must do it there are...

Tablesaws are not suitable for cutting green wood. The dangers of kickback are very real. Nothing beats a bandsaw with a 3 TPI blade for roughing out blanks ,wet or dry.

You can get Crown veneered mahogany 19 mm MDF for about the same price as Baltic Ply. I doubt that you will ever achieve an exact match and those dyes are expensive !

Gloss polyurethane is heatproof. I think the solvent based varnish is tougher than the water based and the trick is to invest in a dedicated varnish brush from a good paint shop.

.Not so sure. All the promo videos for the Xl connector show a 25 mm hole in the post and a 50 mm hole in the rail. They also show one wooden domino above the connector or even a connector in between two dominoes. I don't think a 25 mm depth is strong enough for a bed but I'm open to correction.

I have swapped out a Henry motor when the old one went up in smoke. Not difficult and you will find lots of motors on ebay. I thought them a little pricey at about £60 but shop around. There is at least one video on the tube about doing it.

The side rails probably need to be a little higher. You will want to get a hoover under the bed at some stage. ? Those Festool K/D fittings look ideal and you will only need four as they are reinforced with wooden dominoes. Those 7' dowels across the bedends look tricky unless you can find some...

Ash is absolutely fine and easy to work. It has a pronounced grain after finishing but is less expensive than maple. You need K/D fittings as the bed may be moved at some point in the future. I make my own brass dowels out of 25 mm round stock - its easy to drill and tap an M8 hole for the...