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I have larch planks fixed between concrete posts and coated with Sadolins. I got about 25 years out of them before the ends began to rot. Next time I would find some way of sealing the end grain and they should last a lifetime. Not sure what to use - possibly a bitumen based compound ?

Woodworking is either crosscutting, ripping or breaking down sheet goods. For that budget I'd start with a good mitre saw then look at a secondhand table saw. It soon becomes an obsession and it's always better to save up for a quality tool and resist Chinese rubbish.

I went through about six Chinese digital verniers until I realized that none of them were accurate. Best thing to do is to invest in a Mitutoyo from the start. Just sayin'.

It's a nice idea to get garden trees and convert them into planks. Almost any tree will yield beautiful wood but you are looking at 6" diameter trunks at least to get even a few short planks. Ideally you will need a 2 - 4 HP bandsaw in single phase so your budget falls short. If you do find...

Had to put the specs to see the holes are 0.5 mm :LOL: In general it's better to make the filler to the correct colour rather than trying to stain it afterwards. Some fillers like Woodfil claim to take a pre mixed stain before application. I like to use the range of Liberon earth pigments which...

Be careful cutting hard plastics. They are prone to violent kickback using a conventional blade. If you have to do it , invest in a negative rake blade. I make sleds all the time as I have an American saw and simply rely on whatever bit of straight hardwood I can find.

Nicely made. I always feel the standard Staunton set are a bridge too far - for me a least but good luck. !

It's a useful 'secondary ' wood if you have some way of planking it. I have used it for drawer sides etc It's cousin Aspen is a lovely white wood but very soft.

If you have a router table I would investigate the world of ' Birds Mouth Joinery'. The router profile will do all the shaping and the staves are then glued together. It's a fascinating area and you can get bits for 6,12 or 16 stave joinery. The joints lock into place and I use large band clamps...

Please don't. Screws just don't have the strength in end grain. I tried this approach once with horizontal fence posts that rotted on each end. I thought I would replace the ends with some Iroko , just drill some holes for long dowels and bang them in. In practice it was impossible to get the...

Putting a mark on the 'outside' would have ruined the piece. Far too vulgar for any gentleman !

I made a wardrobe once out of black laminate faced board and it was a nightmare. If you use biscuits you will need very long sash clamps. I presume you are painting it if you are using MRMDF ? I used cheap IKEA type fixings which were difficult to fit as the edge of the board tended to crumble...

They have so much land available that getting planning ' permits' seems to be easy. I like 'Out of the Woods '- a Tennessee sawer using a top of the range Wood Mizer - he is refreshingly free from sponsorship.

They used to make an aluminium version but the bean counters have now reverted to plastic. It's actually a great way to make floating tenons as you just drill out the mortise and yes, you can use a router bit to make the tenons out of oak or any other strong hardwood.

Never built one so I'm guessing you will just about get away with it using three 12 x 60 dowels in each joint. Use proper beechwood or oak dowels - not the dowelling rods which are poor quality ' Far Eastern' wood. A doweling jig would help and you will need sash clamps to get the joints...

Beech can be a bit unstable otherwise I'd suggest making the whole thing in beech. For the top using biscuits to edge join is a help and always register the depth with the fence and not the base of the joiner - to prevent misalignment.

An unusual combination of woods and expensive too ! More utilitarian woods like sycamore and poplar would look just a good and are at least half the price. Its a very tall table not to have stretchers but I think possible with very strong M+T joints. The rails should be recessed from the legs...

A Mitre saw is the wrong tool for making Lap joints and tenons. It can be done but milling away wood with multiple cuts is very inefficient and not particularly accurate. For the amateur I would suggest a tenon jig used with a table saw. However mitre saws are here to stay - they are very good...

Have a look at www.oakdalecrafts.co.uk. I see they have bubinga in 220 cm lengths. You will always have to join veneer on edge to get the width. I found them a super company to deal with.

I was hoping he would make a jig to insert those brass corner brackets but he seems averse to power tools.