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The yanks used to sell a tool called Ringmaster to do just this. It seems to work judging by the you tube videos but with a lot more setting up than these guys do ! :)

I gave up on using a PVA glue in mitres. It leaves a tiny but distinct glue line. Far better use a CA glue which will give the joint enough strength to be handled while you add reinforcement. No waiting for it to dry either. :giggle:

Titbond 3 is an ungodly price but it allows a longer set up time ( about 20 mins ) over standard PVA'a or aliphatic resins. Anybody tried Titebond Extend ? I glued up some planks once and they had not set after two hours. :(

I remember reading a review of glues in' Fine Woodworking' a few years ago and they found that PVA glue was actually stronger than Polyurethane. For indoor work virtually any PVA will do. You might want to match the colour of the glue line to the wood. For outdoor work I tend to use Titebond 3...

If you have a large single lawn a robot mower is amazing. Silent yet effective they rely on taking a mm or so off but can be working away 10 hours per day. Expensive to set up certainly but it's like getting a pet.:giggle: They are controlled via an app on the phone and need no maintenance -...

Yes, I was just trying to point out that working with Baltic ply to achieve a modern furniture grade look demands attention to detail. It is possible without resorting to fillers etc which kind of defeats the purpose of using an expensive material in the first place. The diameter of the router...

Exactly. I saw one bloke shoving a board into the thicknesser with his bare feet ! o_O

You will find that maintaining a clean edge on Baltic ply is a challenge. It is prone to infuriating chips as it is a veneer after all. By all means try a compression bit in a router with a trammel bar. However, I have found that sanding on a disc sander with a circle jig is the most reliable...

All those 'far eastern' videos give me shivers up the spine. Blokes wearing flip flops , clapped out tools and exposed blades are all accidents waiting to happen. It's not Africa, they have the money and you have to wonder why they don't invest a little more in their safety ?

Personally I would use a dado blade in the saw just because I can. :) However using a router you could simply clamp a roofing square to the vertical or build a slot jig like you describe above. Note that special bottom trim bits are available which are better than straight bits and offer widths...

I should think 18 mm will be plenty strong as the weight is taken by the vertical components. 22mm mdf would weigh a ton ! I'm not with you on the back but you want to avoid adding unnecessary weight. Even a 6 mm panel let into a rebate will prevent racking.

If the lines are parallel to the board it is almost certainly some residue on the thicknesser bed being transferred to the board .Clean thoroughly with panel wipe or some other degreaser. If they are random then it's the oak itself. Does it occur with other woods. ?

That's down to technique. You should have no hairline gaps before glueing. In fact you should lay the boards edge to edge and and have a virtually invisible joint line. It takes practice - most people advocate planing the edge but I get better results off the table saw. A good blade, a well set...

I couldn't think of a worse wood to use. It's heavy and brittle and not especially strong. I order it from the US to make box lines and its tricky to use being prone to tearout. Ash is a far better alternative.

Looks ugly. Why not try those spring like stoppers which look like the right length.

Yes, using too much force with clamps will cause the wood to bow a little. All joints just need to be 'nipped up' until the glue squeezes out. Alternate the clamps top and bottom to even out the clamping forces.

I have the old Record 148 and never use it now. Dowels have some limitations. They have a very snug fit and usually need sash clamps to get the joint together. I have yet to see someone using doweled miter joints. ! They are simply too weak to use in chair construction and tend to shrink as the...

There are a number of possible causes for this. Grain orientation is the most common as detailed above but are you sure the saw is cutting absolutely accurate 90 degree angles. ? A digital inclinometer is a good investment and much more accurate than eyeballing with a trysquare. Some woods move...

If you have a perfect edge joint the board will expand and contract in unison . The dowels will not stop that but they help with alignment. The wood should be reasonably dry of course.

It's going to be easier to edge join the thick boards assuming you have a set of sash clamps to glue them up. Don't forget to use a waterproof glue.