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Andrew Varah really pushed out the boat on striking and original design. I made a few reproductions for my own home.

I would only worry when the stock is 3mm or less. As long as the two rollers have a grip when the wood enters the blades. Of course every machine is different. The Scheppach has rubber rollers which are smooth in use. It's a bit of a last resort - far better to machine a long 7 mm board and then...

It depends on the distance between the rollers. My old Scheppach 260 will thickness a length of 100 mm safely. It should specify this on the spec sheet of the machine.

Birch ply makes lovely box joints but is terribly prone to tearout - it is a stack of veneers after all. Scrap supports at the ends of the joint are essential if routing them flush.

I can see in the video that he doesn't bother about the individual fingers - he justs offsets the pressure point to allow the fingers to move a bit. Sounds good and I would probably round over the corner of the jig to prevent wear on the strap. A snug fitting and dead square base will also help...

Well fitting box joints are almost self clamping but you do need to ' nip ' them up to avoid hairline gaps. Rockler in the US sell sets of special clamps with 'fingers' to press on the 'fingers' of the joints and clamped up with a strap clamp. I find them a bit fiddly to use and they are only in...

The sad truth is that nearly all the Chinese made stuff is poor quality. Brusso probably have the best range and have a European website but at premium prices. I like to use gold plated side rail hinges 8 mm wide, so order from either Rockler or Woodcraft in the US. They are about half the price...

It all depends on how hard a life it had and whether it had been serviced at any stage. The brushes on the motor may be well worn ( unless it's an induction motor ) so ask the vendor. You might be better off getting a new but cheapish 10" - 12" saw unless you can find a barely used bargain.

Ash is the only firewood that can be burned in it's green state. Nothing gets a fire going like it !. Going back to the original OP question it would still be worth using Sycamore over Ash as it looks better as it matures. If anything the alternate rings of hard and soft grain in ash becomes...

You can glue the split. PVA is fine and work it into the split with a slip of veneer and clamp closed. It will give a near invisible finish. The pips are part of the oak and best left alone. The larger knots are best replaced with wooden plugs. You will probably need a 16 mm cutter or larger...

Just a word of advice on mosaic tiles. I did a splashback in my kitchen and thought it was a pretty good job. Then I turned on the overhead task lights and found a lot of them had sagged in the middle. Just a fraction and not visible until the lights went on. Can't help with the adhesive but I...

The U shaped handles are pretty much essential for all brush cutters although they have a sling as well of course. I have the Makita twin 18 v brush cutter and can get about 30 mins out of a charge. You are trading off power for convenience with cordless tools. It's easy to buy cheapish...

Sorry , a bit early for me. Yes, I read it as 40 mm not cms. Actually a ratchet loper will do cuts up to 40 mm. The key is the ratchet mechanism which allows you to take two or three bites .However for 40 cms I think you will need a chainsaw.

I don't think any of the pruning saws or bow saws will give a smooth finish. Overall a bow saw fitted with a raker tooth blade is your best option. Dry wood needs a peg tooth blade. You might also consider a ratchet type lopers which will handle anything up to 40 cms diameter and will leave a...

That looks to be an old saw . My Hegner has a blue cast metal arm and the hold down has no extension . I wonder if Hegner intended it to be a handle or is it a DIY add on ?

Don't have a Kity but most bandsaws have an extraction port under the bottom wheel where the dust comes off the gullets of the blade . I would think a chip extractor would help as well for increased air volume extraction. Lastly if you don't have a bristle brush rubbing against the bottom wheel...

I only use it in two applications and never rely on it for structural joining. Firstly for joining miters like picture frames as it will give a near invisible joint - before reinforcement. I'm amazed at all those youtube videos which show miters being clamped with PVA. this creates a very...

See the post by Gadjet above. The problem is that you lose control. The machine decides the end result. Where is the fun in that. ! I'll stick to my home made jigs.

If you don't mind cutting the wood put it in a deep chest freezer for a week or two. That will destroy anything.

1.2 m would be pushing the limit for 18 mm Baltic ply without any risk of sagging under load. If the loads were light you might get away with it but if you want to store hardback books for instance I would expect a little sagging in the middle unless you reinforce the front edge with a batten...