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They are ' table edge clamps ' as far as I know. Mainly for clamping plywood to the edge of a table and using a fretsaw. A bit old school now.

Don't let me put you off but segmented bowl turning is difficult and it helps if you have a touch of obsessive compulsion disorder. I would start by getting Dennis Keeling's book on segmented turning just to see what's involved. Cutting the segments to length and to the correct angle will need...

I've bought a lot from Wealden as they usually have bits with interchangeable bearings that I can't find anywhere else. However for big bits used in furniture making I usually buy those yellow coated bits with obscure names on Amazon. I know they won't last a lifetime but I might only use them...

The most aesthetically pleasing result would be to find a chunk of interesting timber and bandsaw out the shape . A timber with interlocking grain would prevent any splits. If you have to use straight grain timber I would just estimate the appropriate angle and cut two half angles to allow them...

Lamelo produce the Top 20 which allows you to dial the blade down by a mm. One ( expensive ) solution to the problem. :rolleyes:

Very nice quarter sawn oak. The Yanks call this ' Mission style ' furniture. Probably ' Arts and Crafts ' over here. How did you finish it. ?

The front bar on the 746 is round whereas most US type saws have a square/ rectangular bar. ( I have a 746 imported from the U.S.) If you can't find a fence it might be possible to change to bar to take a standard Biesemeyer or similar.

I would think you have to search in the U.S. Out of interest does the saw have a 5/8 " arbour for a dado blade ?

Are the face frames to be painted ? If not it would look better if they were in oak to match the cabinets. Biscuits are quick and easy and have a little lateral movement before the glue sets. I see Blum make hinges to be hidden behind face frames but can't say I've used them.

Someone has stuck an endmill in place of a drill. Looks like it was made by a blacksmith - a hole saw would give better results. :rolleyes:

I have done this with sheet goods which I don't want to waste. Usually a single saw kerf per 300 mm on the underside does the trick. 5 mm deep should work - it is the glue line that holds the board flat . To make diagonal lines on a chessboard you would obviously need to make a jig to hold it...

A little WD40 in the bearing will help. Trim routers can do anywhere between 25 - 35,000 rpm so a slower speed will probably help also. I have found that cherry and maple burn easily - what wood are you using. ?

Assuming it is cupped concave side up your suggestion of glueing in hardwood strips on the convex side should work. You need to clamp it down to a true flat surface while the glue sets. Usually done with parallel lines in boards that have cupped I don't see why it won't work with diagonal saw...

Welcome to the forum. Just to say I imported a Dewalt 746 saw from the US because they offered dual 110/ 240 voltage. It runs at 50 hertz of course but you really wouldn't notice. In theory it is a little slower but that has no effect on the functionality of the saw. As for glue I can recommend...

The 6.3 mm cutter is deliberate to allow a snug fitting 6 mm panel. Even if you found a 5.5 mm bit you would struggle to fit your ply into it. For a painted finish MDF will yield a far better finish than ply. I would look at MRMDF which I have found to be an exact 6 mm. Bring a vernier to the...

Box joints are strictly machine made - life is too short to cut them by hand. I am fortunate to have a dado blade so I can adjust the width of the joints but of course they can be cut with different router bits. I make a test cut and then measure that accurately with a vernier , then multiply by...

As a beginner I would advise you to stick to plain butt hinges. You can't just screw them to the back edges of the box and lid - it would create a gap at the back of the lid.. You need to cut a small rebate / mortise to accept the hinge and mount it flush with the top edges. If not done...

Fitting hinges is one of the trickier jobs in boxmaking. All hinges are ' flush ' in that they are let into a small rebate. One easy trick is to fit the hinges with the lid on perfectly, lift the lid carefully and apply a little superglue to hold the hinge in place. Drill the screw holes...

It's always a mistake to try and make one wood look like another. Even if you get a good colour match the grain will not be correct. You seem to be making face frames but no doors ? The amount of wood involved will be relatively small - one plank of walnut should do it . Walnut veneered MDF is...

You have to admit it's a great design. The blade is driven down without waiting for gravity and it doesn't ruin the blade. A much better system than Sawstop.