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It's DEAD!!!! You've killed it. 😰😰😰😭😭😭

I believe the traditional woods for the hub, spokes and rim are respectively elm to resist the splitting forces at the hub, oak because of its strength under compression and ash for its springiness that will give a modicum of suspension. Are they the woods you have used? I too would like to see...

I can certainly send them to you. PM me please. I'll enclose a 3D printed guide for drilling the holes in the machine. You'll also have to source a short length (36mm) of rod to act as the hinge.

A slap-it-off paddle for my ancient table saw. My Elektra Bekum table saw just has two 15mm buttons to turn it on or off. I want an off switch actuator that is more readily available, the sort where you don't have to find when something goes wrong or you can operate with your knee. Designed from...

Wow! Some jokes! Anyone would think someone's complained there weren't any here on the joke thread. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

There is a brand called ADOLA who make knives sold through Wolfswinkel GMBH. Could the 'underline' be a stylised A? The current trademark is somewhat different though. Just my penny worth (though it's probably not even worth a penny! )

And of course if you have access to a 3D printer you can always print a simple jig to either make a circular jig to give you an accurate centre to mark out from or a larger one you can drill through where your router mounting holes should be or something in between. Have fun Martin

Yes though not so you'd notice. I don't notice any/much ABS smell when its printing. I have seen that some owners have but additional extraction onto their Roboxs and/carbon filters but I've never bothered.

This where Sod's applies: the dynamite will remove the WHB, the wall and the copper pipes but I'll lay money on it NOT unblocking the trap! 🤣🤣🤣🤣

My Robox RBX01 lives in it's standard enclosure upon my desk indoors. I have it sitting on blocks of high density foam to reduce the sound by blocking the reverberations and the desk top acting as a sounding board. I only print ABS but take no precautions to keep the filament from absorbing...

A couple of months ago I removed a WHB that was fixed to the wall using a couple of french cleat style brackets (each one about 1" long). It just lifted off. Of course I didn't realise that until I'd started removing screws. Yours could be similar but with the screws hidden under the basin...

How about your oval holes in two pieces of say 10mm thick wood and then space them so they are 55mm apart, fixed to a backing piece? In other words a U shaped affair with the holes in the uprights? Does that make any sense?

That's the effect of inflation! 🤣

I too was taught/told to mark-up using the outside edge of the blade and more times than other do use that. But I just occasionally find I have to use the inside. Also if I'm checking a second face is square to the first, for example if I am planing a batten, then I invariably use the inside...

An interesting thread. My partner's father used to work for the BBC, then left and set up Spendor. His son took over the company and sold it on his retirement. However his services are still demanded so he's still busy well into his 70's designing speakers.

@GeoffW and @peter-harrison thanks for your informative videos. I'll follow one method or the other. Martin

I'm putting shelves into an alcove and would like to scribe them into the two side walls. I have a shelf currently wider than the space between the side walls so it obviously doesn't go in so that I can scribe either end. I can't see how to do it short of scribing a short piece in at each end...

@dvddvd Not for my Erbauer but I can only speak for that one.

I have an Erbauer router under my router table with a built-in NVR switch. I've just held it in the 'on' position with a cable-tie. Crude but simple.

It's the joke thread itself that has become the joke. 😰😰😰 The joke thread is dead - again. Long live the joke thread.