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I bought a set years ago just after completing a job that required various narrow strips of plywood when I was out of the workshop (where I could have used the tablesaw) and the parallel guides would have made that job so much easier. I think I have used them for a couple of things but cannot...

Good news is that the excellent chaps at NMA have sourced a replacement spindle - this comes with bearings already attached. I will see if I can get some technical guidance on whether the new bearings should be fixed into the frame with bearing compound. As far as I could tell at least one of...

An update on this job that has turned into a bigger one! I bought some new bearings - NSK to match; these ones are made in Poland. Got it all assembled - a tight fit requiring cooling the shaft in the freezer to get the bearings on, then freezing that assembly and heating (a bit) the frame to...

You could try this stuff: https://www.promain.co.uk/manufacturers/teknos/ancillaries/teknos-teknoseal-4000-end-grain-sealer.html I am not sure it is designed for this application as such, but certainly seems to seal the end grain well (as the name suggests it should!) I use it on Accoya...

Well my technique is probably conventional enough (ie I don’t claim any particular inventiveness) but I developed it from my Dad whose approach was to use 1/8” hardboard skins over a softwood frame - he glued these up using Cascamite and they served fine for years, but I did find a few cases...

That was the point that concerned me - I suppose if you made the Shipley booking through eBay, they may help, otherwise, they won‘t/couldn’t. Anyway, why not initiate the refund asap? Obviously we don't know all the facts and can only chip in. Cheers

You probably know all this, but the guidance from eBay regarding returns and associated postage costs is quite helpful (I recall it used to be less so). https://www.ebay.co.uk/help/buying/returns-refunds/start-return/return-postage?id=4066 In particular, it states this (having said that if...

I use this ’torsion box“ construction a lot and I think it will be fine for your design. I always use 6mm MR MDF over a softwood batten frame and I don’t think you need 9mm - this will make it much lighter - just use a reasonable spacing of stretchers in the frame. I glue my assemblies up in...

Yes, if I had not wanted to match up the existing cabinet, I would have used MDF - the last 18mm MR MDF I got was about £55 from Travis Perkins, but that was a few months ago! Cheers

I am making a cabinet to slide under the drill press - I am making it to match another workshop cabinet I made ….which is the sole reason I am using birch ply. 18mm sides and top/bottom with 12mm back and drawer sides etc and 6mm drawer bottoms. I was expecting a shock when I went to get the...

That is interesting - it is very feint, but the C3 marking is on both bearings. There is a difference in the markings on the plastic side covers - both bearings have one side that says A17; the other sides say A03 and A09. I am guessing that somehow this refers to the one side having the seal...

Yep, I looked at many of those alternatives at the time - I went to Milton Keynes to have a close look at the Felder stuff - that is my reference point for a sliding table! But I didn’t have the space and actually, I have no regrets about going with the Scheppach stuff - I do move everything...

@Sideways I realised as soon as I posted that comment about the UK bearings that it may be unclear - I know that NSK is Japanese, but these bearings state “England” on the side - I assume that they would be traced back to RHP - Ransome Hoffman & Pollard (had to look it up to remind myself) that...

Thank you all for your input - that is very helpful. I did wonder what gunk would have been applied on the bearing in the housing as you can see some remnants (see picture below). From a quick look, it seems i have the choice of Loctite 641 - Medium strength or Loctite 638 - High strength...

My table saw started making a slight rattly sound which I didn’t like the sound of - I couldn’t find anything that seemed loose and so I have stripped it down to look at the bearings. This is a Scheppach TS4010 table saw - it is an all fabricated steel cabinet (takes a 315mm blade) - I have had...

It’s a fair question - but sometimes you have to just get on rather than making another jig thing (I probably spend too much of my time making things to make things). Having said that, I think I could make a set of clamping squares pretty easily - what I had in mind was something like these...

I bought a set of Rockler Clamp-it squares that do the same job (these were about £35 for 4 in 2016, but seem to be about £15 each now). They are pretty robust plastic which may or may not be better (lighter) to use than the aluminium Woodpecker ones. I bought them when making a bunch of...

That is interesting - for the final hand brushed coat, do you spray this on, then hand drag it or apply the paint by brush? Cheers

One other point I think I recall correctly is that I made up each pair of doors with the Soss hinges fitted before fitting to the frame (and routing the V-groove pattern). I don’t actually remember the detail, but I think I probably made a template (using my usual method of hot-glued strips of...

I think the following might be relevant to your project. This involved wardrobes for three bedrooms built into the eaves of an old building being converted - the sloping ceilings precluded doors opening towards the outside walls and there was restricted swing space for the wide doors required...