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+1 for a Sure Stop (even better with a remote switch at a convenient place). We rely on one of these with incredibly high water pressure - it’s been fitted for about 10 years. They are WRAS approved as a stopcock. Cheers

I second the comments regarding the need for extraction. Here is an old post that describes my own spray booth build and where I got the original inspiration (this was a good starting point). https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/home-spray-booth-lots-of-pictures.41183/ The booth is still in...

Just a little update to this thread that wasn’t mine. I chipped in on the Katsu offset router attachment and this has proved to be really useful on a few awkward jobs now. I made a new base out of ½” Perspex that is a big improvement on the rather flimsy plastic base supplied. The thicker...

Don’t know what bandsaw you are having problems with, but I would think any bandsaw with a decent blade (probably 10 TPI) should do this easily and accurately. I have cut up a couple of old wheelie bins on a bandsaw - the material was thicker than I had expected - 6-8mm., so a bit thinner than...

This does look very poor all round, both the making of the windows and the painting. It looks like the mouldings have been done very badly with tear out on this ovolo. The glazing also looks very poorly installed, but the images are not very clear. It is difficult to say what is the best...

Hello Brian This may do me for a long running plan to recycle rainwater from an old brick-lined 12m deep tank we have in our backyard. It might sit around for another few years, but I will take it off your hands. “Conversation” incoming.

It seems as though the supply issues following the sanctions against Russia may have eased. My supplier stocks BB/BB and that is showing at £120 - not cheap, but tolerable. Last time I bought some from them I was told they would not be getting any more. £132 for B/BB seems pretty good. Cheers

Just on templating - this does make the whole job much easier all round. My technique is to use strips of 6mm plywood or mdf - say 50mm wide. I scribe a piece to fit each side, obviously with a straight piece for the front. I then join the pieces in situ with small overlapping offcuts...

Just on templating - this does make the whole job much easier all round. My technique is to use strips of 6mm plywood or mdf - say 50mm or more wide. I scribe a piece to fit each side, obviously with a straight piece for the front. I then join the pieces in situ with small overlapping offcuts...

I have done this (with some shelves made up of a sandwich over a ladder frame). Two things: a) I would keep the batten and housing groove in the boards at the lower part of the 40mm, thus maximising the thickness of wood actually holding the weight. b) make a template for the shelves - you...

As well as the alignment with the riving knife as I have described, the other thing to check is that the arbour is actually running true - for this you need a dial indicator at one end (your pictures just show that the blade is not square to part of the chassis and it is not clear if that is...

I have sold my TS4010 now, but possibly the attached guidance on refitting the main arbour may help. Basically as I recall, the arbour sits (in two bearings) seated in a frame and the frame is bolted to the main chassis. The blade should be aligned with the riving knife as described, and then...

Well, I would advise against the Panther blade. Read this thread which has a lot of discussion on it - it was a bit inconclusive, but general agreement that it is not suitable for plywood/mdf etc...

I have hired a concrete floor grinder in the past - make sure you hire the biggest vac they make available for it - the amount of dust produced is unbelievable. It did a good job, though. IIRC the diamond disc was measured before and after and I was charged per mm used. You could use those...

I really would stick to scraping with some good scrapers to get all of the finish removed - then sand down carefully with the grain. Get some Bahco scrapers that come with very good TC blades. Finish-wise, I would say use Osmo Hard Wax Oil and apply it with a non-abrasive pad. Cheers

Quite a useful thread, thank you. I am currently just trying to work out the riving knife arrangement with my Hammer B3 saw/spindle moulder that I am rebuilding (still awaiting parts…). A slightly tangential point to the original one.. As far as I can tell there is no alignment adjustment...

Basically copy that. I have a pretty full range of 12v Bosch stuff and they all get used for odd jobs - I rate them. I would say the circular saw is not really a replacement for something beefier (I have a 18v DeWalt that is used for rough stuff and a 18v Festool for a guide rail and a heavy...

I think that the key thing with these sealants is to finish the filling off properly - which I find is best if the amount of sealant left exposed is minimised. Thus in a wall to skirting gap, for example, the sealant just fills the gap and does not form a film up the wall and over the top face...

I will assess this, but I don’t think the holes are there for air intake or for ventilation. There are numerous other large gaps under the cast iron top etc. And of course we really want the air extraction to come from the source of the dust/chips to drag the maximum dust through to the...

Regarding adding to the fire risk with sawdust etc in the cabinet, the Hammer machine I inherited was absolutely caked inside (such that the only solution was complete disassembly of the innards whereupon proper inspection identified numerous damaged parts). Anyway, obviously my machine had...