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Bricksit innit

No problem, there you go https://www.axminster.co.uk/festool-dom ... gLvefD_BwE Cheers

I’m stumped then. It all looks fine to me!! I am puzzled and now really need to know the answer to this brain teaser. My question re outfeed support was thinking whether you needed some support against the fence for the previously machined part (basically the point raised earlier by @eric the...

100% echo the favourable recommendations for Accoya. I have used it just once so far for two asymmetric pairs of garage doors - in each case the largest was 2000 x 1400 ish - made out of 45mm thick accoya and 15mm Tricoya panels. It is a somewhat overdue job to finish fitting these, but they...

PS I would be interested to know what your setup on the spindle moulder is. I assume you have a power feed (they are both pretty substantial cuts). Do you have some support on the outfeed side to keep the workpiece straight and upright? Cheers

Not sure if I missed something, but your initial sketch has the inside ovolo as a R16 that becomes R13 on subsequent drawings; consequently your inner moulding is 3mm narrower and the flat central part 3mm wider. Looks like a good service from Whitehill. Cheers [PS Couldn’t you just grind...

I sent you the missing 79p! Cheers

Um, nope Ah, yes, that’s me :) cheers

@woodywoodwood did you get the postage cost? In the absence of any other details, I sent you £12 based on your first post - just say if there is more to pay. Cheers

Has it been fumed? (I have no experience of fuming, but want to try it) Cheers

...but not stainless steel. They do various nickel finishes (on brass) that might be a good alternative. Cheers

It’s a good question. The best I found at a less than astronomic price was these from Hafele. https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/product/but ... 4&PDP=true Stiil, they are not cheap at nearly £5 each. They are ok, but not quite the drawn quality I was looking for (also the screws supplied are...

Hello I would like one of these please. PM to follow Cheers

Hi I admire your application, but doesn’t this design prevent tilting the table? The original Inca extraction connection does pretty much the same job (admittedly without the zero clearance insert), but does not impede tilting of the table. The extraction efficiency is not the best, but it is...

Yep, that’s how it is. I alternate between the 305mm original (still!) and a 250 fine cut blade - I also have a fine cut 300mm blade for manmade boards. So you need to swap the blade over - not a big job, but if you are really pressed, I guess you could shim the workpiece with a bit of (flat)...

I am unsure about the distinction if any between the Inca 205 and 260. I have a 260 that I have lovingly overhauled and added a few missing bits. I really like the machine - I have a big Scheppach bandsaw in my workshop, and bought the Inca to complete various things locally on a long-running...

I too find I am not using Cascamite that much these days - I use Titebond III a lot as that also has a good open time, and for Accoya, I use PU. @Trevanion - what do you use for Accoya? Regarding Cascamite, though, it is the best for a large glue-up. I find it keeps for a good long time if...

I would use a framework skinned with 6mm mdf. My method is to make a lightweight frame of say 18 x 50mm battens running all round the edges with some intermediate rails. I glue the frame together first with biscuits or dominoes. Then lay the frame on the inner face of each skin and hot glue...

If you contact NMA they will let you have a copy of the manual. They will probably have some instructions for setting the planer tables - they did so for my previous non CI HM3200 that were very useful as a starting point. I think if you do a search on this forum, you should find some...

This is an interesting question. My prior experience with planers has been two Scheppach/Ixes models that have rubber coated feed rollers - these work tremendously well in that they grip the workpiece effectively and leave no indentations in the finished surface, regardless of how fine a cut...