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Scrimper, thanks for that information, I stand corrected and bow to your superior knowledge. Pleases let us know when the Fretworker site is up and running.

All Hobbies fret saws were treadle powered, this looks like a Gem that's been electrified. If you need a new belt then you'll have to take the old one and get one that's the same.

One thing I would say about adjusting the knob to hold the blade, do not overtighten it, it doesn't need that much to hold the blade. If you overtighten it at best you'll bend the lever, worst case break it. When closing the lever it should have a slight resistance to it, if the blade slips out...

Here's a copy of a delta 40-560 type 2, all quickset clamps work the same, it should help you. Open up the clamp, the blade goes in the slot from the front and then the lever is pulled towards you which tightens onto the blade, if it doesn't then you need to adjust it with the nut on the...

Silver Birch is nice to carve.

If it has this type of clamp then this posted by hawkinob a long time ago might help.

Not knowing which saw you have but if it's the Hegner clone then Hegner clamps come in different sizes for various blade thicknesses, 0.5mm, 0.7mm and 1mm you could try them.

Joe, if you google scroll saw blade charts you'll find a few, I know there's an Olson and Pegas one and maybe a Niqua one as well. Blades for wood are usually numbered 3/0 to 12. 3/0 being the finest and 12 the coarsest. I mostly use 1, 3 and 5 blades. Just found a Scrollsaw woodworking one.

If you don't mind buying second hand and want quick, fast and easy blade changes then look for an old Delta with the Quickset blade clamps.

I seem to think a member here (can't remember who) a while ago suggesting cutting those kind of clamps where I've marked the red line, to make it easier to use.

I have two marks a piece of ply at the side of my wheel, the top mark is for skews and parting tools the lower one is for gouges, all of them, roughing, spindle and bowl. No idea what the angle is, it's one that I've always used and used to it. Scrapers are just laid on the tool rest.

My solution would be to cut the bottom off the yellow guard.

I think AES means a bicycle wheel quick release skewer to replace the tension rod.

My wife is the same, always had a gas cooker but with the AEG cooker we've just had I found out it needs electricity for it to work. The safety devices need electric to work. No electric no cooking, which didn't go down too well with her.

What I did with the banjo on my Record DML24 (which has the same style banjo) was to find a coach bolt that the square fitted the slot, filed it all smooth, dropped it in, also added a piece of ply that just fitted between the bars under the banjo to help keep the bolt upright and welded a piece...

I use re-positionable spray glue applied to the back of the pattern. I'm currently using one from Crafters Companion, the Purple can. Crafter's Companion Stick and Spray Mounting Adhesive (PURPLE CAN) As for the dust blower, on my Delta I used a dogs squeaky toy, removed the squeaker and pushed...

I always thought that the fuse was there to protect the cable more than the appliance.

I have a second hand W730 and can't fault it, first thing I did was replace the guide bearings and order some 1/2" Tuffsaws Supertuff Fastcut blades. It will cut 8 1/2" Oak without missing a beat, it does say 9" but the upper guides are stuck very near the top and have been all the time I've had...