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The one boboxsi linked to looks the same as the Axminster one, he states the belt is 4ft x 6" the disc is 10" and the motor is 800w all of which are larger than the Clarke, so I would say that if boboxsi likes the price then go for it, at todays price conversion it's approx. £100 cheaper than...

Try British Hardwoods or Scawton Sawmill, both will be at the Harrogate Wood show this month. happy scrolling Steve

one here, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOBCO-7-8-PIL ... 1c58bfe4e7

Well said, Mechanism Man.

I know someone who recently took one to the Antique Roadshow at Bolsover and they valued it at £100, though I don't know what the size was but would imagine it's the same size.

Good Woodworking has had it's fair share of mistakes like that, more so it seems since the last editor took over, in this same issue they even reprinted an old article about a round window, they even reprinted one of Steve Maskerys furniture making articles a while back.

First photo, 2nd and 4th from left look like part of an old Craft Supplies pen mandrel, you're missing the bar that the tubes go on. on the left looks like a ring drive that's held in a chuck, 3rd from left counterbore drive for lamp columns, the two on the right are dead centres.

I normally use a brad nailer or stapler in the waste when stack cutting. happy scrolling Steve

It might be a broken wire, I have one on my mouse, just have to wiggle the cable to get it to work.

Cordy, depends on your graphic program but with Coreldraw you highlight the text, then left click on white to fill and right click on the colour you want for the outline. This will work on any font. I hope that makes sense. happy scrolling Steve

Geoff if you go with laser printing you can iron the pattern onto the wood, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8GClaRYJi5w or you could go the inkjet way. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zq2O66QGCwg happy scrolling Steve

Well done Gill, I do like that. Yep it's a lot harder than it looks to make this kind of pattern and it's only when cutting it you see things that could have been different. As you say you'll get better at it, so keep up the good work. happy scrolling Steve

Thanks for the comments. Frank we're both fine, will have to sort out a visit soon. happy scrolling Steve

Thanks for the comments guys, Claymore, no it wasn't flooring but offcuts of oak veneered mdf from a friend who got a load from a joinery shop. happy scrolling Steve

After watching a tutorial by Travis on the scrollsaw village forum here is my first attempt at intersecting word art. It's cut from 1/4" Oak veneered mdf and is 10" x 8" finished with Danish oil. Not bad for a first attempt, not perfect but the wife likes it. Comments welcome happy scrolling Steve

Thanks for that. Is that it or do you apply any polish or anything later? :) That's it, I don't put anything else on, a quick rub with a cloth gives it a bit of a sheen, if the piece is not too delicate. happy scrolling Steve

scrimper, I finish a lot my work with Danish oil (no preferred brand, using Wilkos own brand at the moment) and use the dipping method and always apply the finish at the end of a cutting session. I put the oil in a container and dip all the pieces I've cut that day and lay them on the wire tray...

Andy, pm sent. Steve

Martin, why not get a wood cutting blade for this saw? Tuffsaws will make one up to any size. happy scrolling Steve

Yes, definitely better with the backer. happy scrolling Steve