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It's a design by the late Siegfried Linkwitz, no sub is required as they are full range dipoles, they are much lauded in HiFi circles -LX521 Ed

Lots written on this thread chimes with me as one born in the 50's the youngest of 4, so I remember my dad making a lot of stuff around the house so as to 'make do' When my own kids were still in diapers my day job was in IT in London and in my spare time I was making window frames to replace...

I thought the same - that's just up the road for me at Braintree and I used to enjoy visiting it and meeting up with folks. I was on the cusp to go to the Newark show, but the weather and grim 260m round trip put me off. Glad the weather has abated and folks got there and that most enjoyed...

I've only just come across this thread and was captivated by the quality and skills you have Dan, and also the insightful comments from others along the way. Truly inspirational work and such fine attention to the design and details - absolutely fabulous and I applaud you wholeheartedly!! Ed

You could try Bona Whitener - I used this on a project last year to stain some pine parquet prior to sealing it - I used it to lessen the tendency of pine to go somewhat yellow/orange when varnished/sealed. I posted the details on this forum here -...

I was wrong - Doh! - brain obviously not in gear this morning..!!

Derek is correct - https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100064450882354&paipv=0&eav=AfbctZMAwIyzaUUeb6XIQDxHCNkVnrFbR-ThGKe5AibjQUVpkbwSvTiNb2Z7KSt94a4

What about Jade oil - I use this after patinating brass or copper and AFAIKT it dries by oxidation to a very tough and long-lasting finish. On frequently used handles outdoors it will eventually wear through but by then the patina is in any case even more natural, and I'd have thought for...

Gosh - mention of Bucaneers brings back memories, I in my early career worked for Marconi Avionics and I'd often end up on some windswept airfield in Norfolk/Suffolk or occasionally Lossiemouth sitting underneath them with 'scopes and test gear hooked up into the pods whilst kerosene leaked out...

Apologies typo on my part!!

As others have said Sodium Bicarbonate and a battery/charger and a plastic bucket will clean most stuff pretty quickly, it creates a foamy and dirty scum on the bucket but depending on how extensive the corrosion is , it can take less than 30mins to do its stuff. I buy the stuff here...

your best bet is to peruse this forum, lots of very knowledgeable guys post there - https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/mig.htm /Ed

I have an Earlex HV5000 system that I've used to spray speaker cabinets and the like, the paint I used was Morrels 2 part so fairly viscous stuff however with a 1mm needle as opposed to the as supplied 1.5mm it gives a good finish. I've not used it yet for emulsion but I would imagine it would...

My go-to for MDF edges is a roundover/ovolo bit rather than a chamfer due to the former being more resistant to knocks etc and also allows a better edge to accept a painted finish. Personally I find that using a block plane difficult to achieve and even and consistent width especially over...

A while back I built my bench out of American Maple from a local yard, I shamelessly copied it from pictures I saw of a one time poster here (Lord Kitchener??) so didn't really have firm plans and just went for it! I can't remember the cost of materials but probably less than £500 and is rock...

I just happen to have an AC/DC TIG capable welder since I occasionally weld aluminium and sometimes prefer TIG'ing over MMA because of the finer control it gives.

In the early 70's I was an avid motorsport fan and a group of us used to frequently go to nearby Brands Hatch race track - the smell of the fuel additives they used back then is particularly memorable - I have no idea what they were but on the rare occasions I have been to race events recently...

I'd fabricate these by welding two pieces together - I faced the same issue with some wall plates required for the mitred corners of an extension, and all the merchants ones were way too skinny. I cant remember whether I welded using a stick or TIG nor what thickness was used, from memory it was...

I used this technique when cutting parquet flooring and it is super easy using this technique to 'creep' up to a knife-line or whatever. One challenge I had when cutting the parquet was that even with a small square it was very difficult not to get parallax errors when marking up a gap in the...

The Morso NFS that does those notches are a superb bit of kit, amazingly accurate and even though manually operated are relatively easy to use, if only they weren't so expensive, and as others have mentioned they seem to sell 2nd hand for the same price as new.. I know I saw one in use in the...