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Thanks - just used it together with Black Friday discount to buy a bandsaw

WALNUT ideal for box making or panels. These book-matched panels were made from the larger pieces (the main timber is yew):- 5 pieces of walnut 65" x long 3/4" thick MC 11% The best ones are at the back £35 each, the next 2 £25 each and the front one FTAGH if you buy the whole lot at £110...

I doubt whether it would be successful especially with those dowel holes making weak spots. The original method was not successful over the long term. Do you know how old it is? Brian

Laminating is probably the safest method. It looks abut 25mm thick. I would use 5 x 5mm laminas. God quality straight grain timber is required. Ash would be a good choice. You need to make a former to bend it round and devise a method of clamping them in place. The original was probably made of...

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You can see my m/c in the link I gave in the recent post. here it is again. It's a 20 year old Denford which was marketed for educational use so it's good and robust, although I had to do some renovation work to get it accurate enough for gear cutting. My biggest hurdle was getting to grips with...

I agree with @Bojam . I get the impression that Laguna are improving old designs, making them look nice and presentable and selling them at a premium price. I was looking at their drum sander, a tasty bit of kit, but essentially it will do the same job as my 30 year old Jet. I also agree that...

I had the exact same problem on my CNC router. Same experience down to the spring flying out. I bought a simple toggle switch to replace it but it was too big to go into the confined space on the router motor. Yesterday I rearranged the wiring to the motor and mounted the switch on the machine...

I tried a scroll saw but soon gave up on it because it was obvious I didn't have the skill level and I didn't want to spend years acquiring it. I haven't tried a coping saw, Just the thought of cutting 150 gear teeth would put me off the whole exercise. What method does the book recommend? Brian

I'm pretty sure it was 28mm. I'll check on Friday when I'll be eating my supper off it. More than likely I used cascamite needing a decent open time for the vac press. Brian

If you are going glue the sawn faces I would consider a non-water based (PVA) and go for PU. What thickness of MDF? A thick, 28mm say. may not need a balancing veneer. I'm not sure that a balancing veneer will be satisfactory as it will have totally different characteristics to the small parquet...

Nice to hear you're getting going again. Have you seen my 2 threads on clock making; No.1 and No.2. I've just started No.3 which you can see in the latest post here. I've been through the leaning curve on gear cutting and have discarded (and sold) the scroll saw method. I homed in on basic...

Today I made my largest effort on my CNC router. So large I had to keep the door open - very noisy, ear defenders on. It's the escape wheel for my latest clock project. It's made form my own plywood fabricated out of oak veneer. It was cut in 3 sections being indexed around a central brass...

Sold

10 slabs of Cherry timber photographed both sides:- Cherry L T W V Price @ £35/cu.ft A 81 2.5 8.63 Sold B 78 2.5 9.71 1.10 Sold C 80 2.5 9.83 1.14 40 D 81 2.5 9.42 1.10 Sold E 78 2.25 9.63 0.98 Sold F 77 1 7.42 0.33 12 G 78 2.5 8.08 0.91 32 H 80 3 6.25 0.87 30 I 60 3...

Let's get back to the basic question - MDF or ply for a veneered display case 1m wide (how deep?). At this stage the veneering doesn't come into it. The choice of sheet material depends on your basic design and veneer can be applied to either substrate. What loads is it going to take? Where is...

Have you tried it without the base plank? Brian

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