Search results

Might be wrong but I would guess that the doors I linked to would have solid MDF (or chipboard) stiles and rails so there wouldn't be any void to fill after they have been trimmed.

Check out the sizes here, available in 711 x 1981 🙂 Like I said you are generally okay taking more off in height than they recommend you just end up with chipboard at the bottom instead of a wooden lath (depending on the construction)...

Today while the rest of you were no doubt enjoying BBQ's and beers in the sun I was repairing a rotten window :( Won't go into detail but had to repair this quickly and reuse the glass despite the fact that a new window would probably have made more sense. As is always the case the problem...

How much you can trim off depends on the door, some of the cheap ones only allow 4mm per edge but some other ones allow 16mm per edge so might be worth checking a few different makes. For example https://www.oakwooddoors.co.uk/internal-door-solid-white-primed-coventry-4-panel-special-offer...

At least if it happens at the cutting stage there is a good chance you can straighten it up a bit when planing. Unfortunately wood movement doesn't just happen when sawing and I think it can be worse when you are machining a piece that is finished size and it moves. For example you can have a...

A couple of weeks ago I managed to take a decent chunk out of a finger with my sliding panel saw and it wasn't even turned on 🙄 It was the most ridiculous thing, I'd just nipped down the workshop to paint some cabinets, I had actually finished and was leaving the workshop when it happened. As...

It's the stress being released in the wood as you cut it. It looks like the board was trying to close up behind the blade so the back of the blade was probably also cutting the wood hence taking a bit more out of the middle. Thing is the back of the blade is cutting with an upwards action...

14 year old thread brought back to life! I presume they meant this stuff https://www.sdslondon.co.uk/cabinet-hanger-wall-rail-2032-mm.html?campaign=21090863457&content=&keyword=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtsy1BhD7ARIsAHOi4xYVMERYeGOL1FYvsMzRb015otNsCoT7HlH9PhX3G3A3Jmu974WsaMUaAvfOEALw_wcB

I must confess that I have never used this style of hinge but according to Hafele website says they can be used for both overlay and inset. https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/product/concealed-hinge-90-easy-mount-steel/P-00898418/

Looking great, I always think that the coving/cornice going up makes a massive difference, it just kind of finishes things off (y)

The customer bought all the hardware (apart from hinges), I think he sourced it from a few different places. I actually found it quite stressful fitting the hardware, screwing small brass screws into hard Maple and trying to clock them can be a bit nerve wracking! The customer certainly seems...

Hi Ian, I can't take any credit for the design, it's for a customer I do loads of work for and generally the design process with them is they hand me a photo from a magazine and say "Make us one of these". The paint was Benjamin Moore Scuff-X, I think matt and the colour is Black Forest Green...

The concealed hinges that require a 35mm hole are best but you can get ones that just screw on. Example here from Screwfix, some reviews complain about the spring strength but they are also available unsprung. https://www.screwfix.com/p/hafele-steel-90-easy-mount-hinges-95mm-2-pack/1121j

Larder type cupboard with integrated fridge, corner unit and shelves. To reduce my workload I cheated and bought the carcasses in, a local company makes decent quality ones (18mm backs etc) to any size, I did have to adjust a couple to straighten them up though. All the framing is Maple...

I've used a lot of Maple recently and haven't found a problem cutting it with my Kapex although they have all been square cuts no mitres. My blade is newish but embarrassed to say it's only a cheap 60 tooth thing from Saxton. Clamping does help on mitres as the wood can get pulled across (I'm...

@John Brown this shows someone pushing their hot dog quickly into the blade, should start in the right place. @Spectric the crown guard doesn't just stop you touching the blade it also helps stops kickback, even though you might have Saw Stop you are still at risk from kickback so in my...

I often use the Timbabuild products from Reddiseals but it's about the same price as Repair Care. https://www.reddiseals.com/?s=timbabuild I think @johnnyb recommends this stuff which I keep meaning to try. https://www.makewoodgood.co.uk/product/rotten-wood-repair-kits/

It says the door in the link is constructed of engineered hardwood, this can mean ply or even MDF, I very much doubt the panel in that door is solid wood.

I have no experience of flush fit hobs in wooden worktops but would be slightly worried that there is only 4mm clearance on the cut out as I have seen 600mm deep worktops shrink by more than this. I would make sure the top is well acclimatised before you make the cut out, although unless the...

Hardwood often comes in random widths, you might be able to get 150mm wide but I know if I ordered that from my supplier the minimum width piece might be 150mm but there would definitely be a few wider pieces among it and the off cuts often end up as waste. I know the whole laminating thing is...