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Yes, it's the model with the large sliding table. My friend had one but swapped it for a proper panel saw, he said the Sedgwick wasn't accurate enough on bigger panels. Still a lot of saw for the money though even if you don't get or use the sliding table. This is what it should look like...

Looking great 👍 I think a small **** bead always looks classy, you could pin one on, although if it hasn't been designed with one in mind it might not work in places. If I was taking the router to it I would probably just go with a small roundover/arris bit. I would hate for you to have made...

Yes it's your house but unfortunately no you can't just do what you want to it. The rules and regs are there for a reason, they may seem unfair or daft at times but we need rules and regs to make sure things meet a minimum standard. It's okay for Bob down the pub to say he would just do it but...

The problem with the dual purpose ones is that the firing pin is bigger because of the staples so it leaves a bigger dent in the wood than if you use one that only fires nails.

Looks like Maple 👍

You might need a key longer than normal to operate the lock from the outside?

I have been a joiner for 30+ years now so know quite a few tradesmen, people ask me for recommendations for other trades all the time and are surprised when I often can't give them any. Many of the good people I know have retired, the other ones are too busy with their regular customers to take...

Well they have just played "It's Alright" by East 17 on Radio 2 and I must confess I turned up the volume 🤣🤣🤣

If you are on Makita platform it's worth taking a look at the Ryobi Airstrike 18g nailer and a Badaptor so it takes your Makita batteries, it's what I use and know a few others on here do. I have been pleasantly surprised at how well it's performed so far. You can't beat cordless, you will find...

I got one of these about a month ago and really pleased with it for the price. Easy to move around the workshop but you do need an extension lead for it...

You could be right as I'm up North (ish) and we used to just butt the pulley stiles to the linings, we would prime the joints then just bang in some 1 1/2" ovals (being careful not to hit the pockets). I do tend to use the "superior" method now.

I like the Festool extractors. The newer models are meant to be a bit more durable than the older models, they had a reputation for broken hose garages, 2 of mine have and I'm careful! The hoses are really nice and you should buy one of the Bluetooth remotes to go on the end of it, you won't...

I have never made a window out of it but I'm sure some firms do, I would be happy using it for the inside and outside linings but not sure about the pulley lining? I did use it for the outside lining on a window I repaired and it worked fine. I think @Against_The_Grain has made a few sash...

Nice idea but not as easy as you would think to do right! Most places just chop the butt hinges double thickness into the door.

And I presume they can still say it's made of Solid Oak :dunno:

The little staff bead is often called a **** bead, I like the way it looks, it kind of hides the gap around the door. I don't do many so don't have a proper set up for doing them, I generally cheat by making the frames just square and nailing a bead on after.

Don't know if this will give you any inspiration but Keith Brown did something similar.

I often use MR MDF to fill old hinge mortices etc, it's easy to plane level with the old frame and is easy to chisel out for the new hinges as it comes away in layers. Once I have cleaned out the old mortises I just glue the MDF in with mitre fix.

I think they are more about transferring measurements rather than actually measuring things if that makes any sense.

Forums like this are not as popular as they once were, times have changed and people show off their work on Instagram etc. I think this place isn't doing too bad considering, it is hard keeping interested when you have been around for a while as the same things do come up again and again but...