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Here is a quick sketch of how I've used AQ21 seal in the past to draught proof opening casements if it makes any sense. The good thing is it's flexible so works with different sized gaps. I'm not really sure on how or where you are using the bulb seal you mention but some of them (and brush...

I have been asked to make some cupboards and shelves to go in these alcoves either side of a fireplace. It will really just be a cupboard front in the bottom with a pair of doors on (no carcass) and a couple of shelves somewhere in the top. The cupboards need to be done without altering...

Well it's good news, they are happy with the look of a strip under the door with a small rebate in to form a shadow gap at the joint 🥳 Thank you for all the advice and ideas, much appreciated, the shadow gap thing swung it and has certainly made the job a lot quicker, easier and cheaper for...

For me it depends on the walls and the type and size of skirting, sometimes screwed, sometimes nailed and sometime glued. If gluing I normally use the polymer based stuff like fix-all, gluing somehow seems to suit MDF skirting but not solid wood. Some people use the foam type adhesive these...

The riving knife is one of the most important safety features along with the blade guard, I'm guessing if you don't have a riving knife you won't have a blade guard either as the blade guard is normally fixed to the riving knife. Blade guards are easily available, you just need to get one to...

The good news is it's quite easy to make most standard 1/4" hex end drill bits etc fit Centrotec as long as they have a long enough shaft, you just need to grind a bit off the corners and add an extra groove. I have a couple of sets of proper Centrotec bits for use in the workshop (which are...

Yes he is building another house right next door and yes he could use the doors in there but unfortunately it's not the doors that are short it's the openings that are long. Doors only come in standard sizes which is mainly 6'6" long. There are some longer ones available (too long really) but...

The first thing the owners said is they don't mind buying and paying me to fit all new doors but as Kev said new doors would be the same size. I will speak to the builder again and ask how the casings are fixed. Probably slightly optimistic but I'm thinking if they are just screwed in I can cut...

A few months ago I hung some internal doors for a local builder in a new build, they were pre finished Oak doors, the builder had fitted the casings. I got a call last week to go and take a look at the doors as the people who bought the house and are now living there don't like the big gap...

A bit holder on a drill is important for me, generally a PZ2 will be in the drill with probably a PZ1, PH1, PH2 and straight bit in the holder. Many jobs I find myself constantly swapping between bits so it saves loads of time and hassle storing them on the actual drill rather than fishing them...

If you are going to change the blade for a thinner one than was originally supplied with the saw you will need to check that it's suitable to use with your existing riving knife. The riving knife should be thinner than the blades kerf but thicker than the blades plate.

The thing with the CXS (and I presume the Milwaukee equivalent) is how you hold them. Instead of holding the handle you kind of hold the back of the drill with your index finger pointing down the body of the drill and use your middle finger on the trigger, might sound strange but feels totally...

As @Sideways says that Mafell is this Metabo rebadged, for some reason it looks better in red :dunno: https://www.dm-tools.co.uk/Metabo-PowerMaxx-BS-12-BL-Q-Drill-Driver-2-x-12V-LiHD-40Ah-ASC-55-Charger-metaBOX-118-plus-Quick-change-angle-adapter/P21872#.Y98LVoynw1I

That is a tricky one to make look right. You could maybe return the mould down to the top of the step like this (viewed from the end of the step), maybe holding it just back from the corner to make a feature of the corner bead. You could then also mitre that long top bit back into it to get a...

I have had a CXS for years and it is by far my most used driver, it feels great in the hand. It's a bit slow for drilling so I normally have another drill set up for that, in fact the CXS spends most of it's time without any chuck on at all just a bit placed straight in the end of the shaft to...

I've used other makes which have not lasted that long but have been using these for over a year now and so far they have performed faultlessly (obviously will stop working next week now 🙄). I have 2 of them on the extractors to my panel saw, a Record DX4000 2kw and Festool Ct26 1200w both...

I have bought a few of the below from Amazon and have them around my shop on different extractors, one of them is on a twin motor Record DX 4000 which I imagine is similar to your camvac. They do lots of different options with different remotes etc but I quite like these light switch style...

A few years ago I was asked to go and look at replacing some rotten floorboards in a large bungalow, when I saw the boards I suspected it was dry rot. It was obviously a suspended timber floor so I took up boards in a few different rooms to check it out and found the strands and spores...

Nothing very exciting, just a big BFL door. It's a replacement for one of a pair, the customer says the other one still has a bit of life left in it so we are only replacing one..... I generally machine out the boarding myself. If you start with a piece of 9"x3", cut 4" off each side then deep...

Well for a start I wouldn't trust that square you are using :) As said if all your lengths are equal, your cuts square and corner to corner measurement equal you shouldn't be far off. Looks like you have a back on the cabinet which should hold that square, you can always tack a lath across the...