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If you think the Festool vibrates a lot you should try my Makita cordless version 🙁

You can get ones that just screw on if it's easier. https://www.trade-hinges.co.uk/horizontal-plate-175h5400-53-p.asp

I said I would keep out of the paint debate but like @eribaMotters I often use Dulux aluminium primer with Dulux Ultimate Opaque over the top but I use the spirit based version of the Ultimate Opaque.

I would suggest you might as well get some top coat on before you fit them, it's much easier than trying to paint them in situ, also some bits on sash windows can't be painted once the sashes are in. I will leave others to debate acrylic v spirit based v linseed oil paint ;)

Depends what look you are going for, if painted just MDF. Can't believe I'm about to say this but some of the rustic/pallet wood ones look nice.

If it's the style I think you mean it's quite easy to shorten a standard one, example of a joiner doing it on site below.

I think you might be after something that doesn't exist. Since Li-ion batteries came on the scene cordless tools have really taken over, they are so convenient, Li-ion solves many of the old battery problems and are really user friendly. About the only corded impact driver I have seen is this...

I would be tempted to look at the budget track saws, I have never used one but get the impression they are more than capable. Rails like the Festool or Makita are kind of the industry standard so if you could use one of those there will be more accessories available, it would be quite easy to...

Some good info here https://www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=5038&p=76946&hilit=morticer+guide#p76946

I was going to say I have only made face frames out of solid wood as they generally use butt hinges but thinking about it I have done quite a few cupboards with what I think of as a false face frame. By false face frame I mean using Blum overlay or half overlay hinges on the doors/carcasses then...

As said they are all rubbish. They often make a big point of talking about things like "engineered core for added strength and stability" and "A-grade Oak veneer" but it all means nothing when the veneer starts lifting after a couple of years. Some friends wanted an Oak veneered stable door...

Some heavy duty trestles for a local factory, I make them a few every couple of years. I like how quaint and old fashioned it seems having the local joiner make stuff like this. As simple as they look there are some complicated cuts. Panel saw makes easy work of it. GUARDS REMOVED FOR...

My domino machines are the other way around! On my 700 the bearing that sets the fence parallel is spot on but on my 500 there is a bit of play and I have to lift the fence a minute amount for it to be parallel. I have had the 500 since they were first released and it has put in about...

The external Osmo stuff seems okay for vertical surfaces but doesn't last on horizontal surfaces.

Keith Brown reviewed it recently and quite liked it

You down want to get this wrong so I would get advice from someone like Dust Spares rather than trusting opinions on the internet. I'm sure they will design you a system for free if they think they might get a good sale from it. https://www.dustspares.co.uk/

Thank you for your explanation Ian, that all makes sense. There are 6 of the long thin yellow panes in this window and every single one has the same bent bar problem but it does seem like the seals are still working. They are doing up the house ready to sell which is why they asked me to...

If you click on the 360 degree view on the link below and zoom in on the identification plate it says made in PRC. I think it might be another manufacturers saw rebadged and pimped a bit like they did with the multi tool which is probably the reason...

Festools new reciprocating saw is made in PRC which I found a bit disappointing.

I would suggest £20 on a second hand Stanley no4, £20 on a second hand block plane then with the £960 you have left buy a planer thicknesser, much more productive.