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The dust extraction from my Sedgwick MB isn't great, I don't think old machines were designed with it in mind. Mine has a homemade dust chute similar to yours, I've tried a few different variations and none have worked as well as I would like. My chute has a hole in the back to let some air in...

I have been asked by a customer if I can sort out their Oak gates, it's a bit of a tricky one so thought I would ask on here in case anyone has done similar? It's a pair of electric driveway gates about 15 years old. The T&G boarding hasn't had enough clearance so is popping out on both as you...

On Friday I went to look at replacing a couple of panes of glass for a customer as they have a decorator coming to paint the windows, found one of the sashes was quite rotten so ended up repairing it over the weekend :rolleyes: The bottom rail was really rotten, it's a bathroom window and looks...

And if you do use adjustable brackets as linked to above get yourself a long length (or 2) of hanger rail. You might need to cut a bit out of the back edge of the carcases but if it's a run of cabinets it's easier than using the individual little brackets...

I have been putting off this job but the customer is keen to move forwards with it so I went and did a couple of quick MDF mock ups for them today. They are still keen for the top of the cupboard to be sat on top of the dado and for the mouldings to join up either side so it looks original...

@MikeK the Sedgwicks don't have the support wing like the Powermatic but the infeed table is wider than the cutter block to give a bit of extra support if that makes sense. I used to cut rebates on my old Wadkin where both in and out feed tables were the same width as the block and unless the...

Would be handy to see a photo with the handle taken off.

As @HOJ says it is surprising how soft the core of some solid doors are, there is no chance of the handles staying on for long if they aren't bolt through or don't have grub screws in. You can normally tell which side the lock block is by gently tapping mid stile with a hammer, I always do this...

There is a small estate of houses near me which were built in the 70's, they all have wall lights around the living room instead of pendants hanging down. The cables just run horizontally between the lights which is bad enough but the worst part is where the run is broken by a window the cable...

I have the Festool stand for my KS120, it is expensive but it is really nice. The thing that sets it apart for me are the "wings" or trimming attachments as Festool call them. You can't beat having the full length shelf type support there all the time instead of just one little narrow support...

A great feature of the Sedgwick planers is that you can cut rebates with them, this isn't possible on most other planers. The shaw guard is meant to be used when cutting rebates, it works as a guard and guide.

I would use 22mm, I think 18mm looks cheap unless it's a small door. Same goes for the panels, 6mm is okay for small panels but I use 9mm for bigger ones as 6mm can feel a bit lightweight and flimsy.

There is no bridge guard shown in the photo, I presume it has one, if not that would probably knock the price down a bit?

That looks like a nice little thing (y) I think one negative about them is the outfeed table doesn't adjust which can make it slightly trickier changing knives, also not sure if the ESTA knife system that you were talking about will fit it for the same reason. I wouldn't let that put you off...

Had my Jigsaw out this afternoon (Festool Trion) to have a quick look at the blade on the different settings (was feeling a bit bored). When pendulum action is off the blade sits at it's furthest point forward and obviously just goes up and down. When Pendulum action is turned on the blade...

This is the new version of that Sedgwick, they are generally bulletproof but I understand why people want to buy new. The fact they are 4 times the price of the Charnwood says it all. https://www.axminstertools.com/sedgwick-pt1-planer-thicknesser-230v-340078 The Esta knife set up is good but...

I find on new builds it often works the other way and doors seem to get tighter. As the casings dry out the rebates seem to curl inwards making the gap down the handle side smaller.

I did my utility room in Oak using leftovers I had acquired from jobs and finished it with some oil (can't remember what). If I did it again I wouldn't use wood but if I had to use wood it would be finished with a polyurethane varnish! It is where the kids clean their football boots and paint...

I wouldn't be messing with it, just go and buy the correct lead. As good as the plug it leads are they are not without their problems, over time they can become slightly loose which can cause arcing damaging both the plug on the lead and the socket on the tool, you then have to replace both...

I would use a normal brush (suitable for acrylic finishes), probably 2" so you get it on a bit quicker and just go with the grain. I have never used the Rustins varnish but the above works for me with other brands.