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That looks a fun project. Are there any totally original windows left to copy? The windows in the photos have been messed around with, looks like someone has taken the easy route and replaced the bottom of them but left the Gothic arches untouched. You will be fine with the machinery you have.

Unfortunately because FENSA is self certification it doesn't seem to be a guarantee of quality work.

Any replacement window should be signed off by Building Control or done by someone who is FENSA registered. If doing it yourself through building control you will need to prove it meets the regs for U values etc plus they will charge you something like £200 for the application.

Bump

Thank you everybody, I am probably overthinking it. I just haven't found any info on where the cabinet door hinges need to pivot in relation to the fridge hinges, maybe this is how the slider thing works giving some leeway so that it doesn't really matter within reason. I'm ordering the...

Making a start on this now and still not really sure what I'm doing 🤔 It's going to be a fridge with sliders (when it eventually turns up) and I'm stressing about the pivot points for the hinges and what will work. The cabinets are going to be bought in and I'm making the face frames/doors...

I watched about the first hour and a half of this last night, going to watch the rest later this evening. His videos get a big 👍from me.

The doors only have about 1mm clearance, one of the reasons they wanted a bespoke one making was all the cabinets they had seen were a bit "gappy" so I had to make sure they fitted tight. Most cupboards I make have a cockbead around the edge (and between the doors), despite looking fancier the...

Some people call them hinge bolts, they go on the hinge side in the edge of the door to add a bit more security. One way of breaking in is to remove the pins out of the hinges, hinge bolts mean even if you do this you still can't gain access. You can buy them like this...

Glazed cabinet, it's only plain but took longer than I expected to make. The doors, frames and shelves are Maple and the sides Birch ply, in fact the only bit of MDF I managed to sneak in is the back! Got to include a photo from the workshop. Not quite finished yet as waiting for the...

I would suggest you do them with hand tools, if you have a mitre saw (that trenches) or a router they could be used to speed things up a bit. Avoid doing anything on the table saw that involves removing the guard.

I've used this in the past, seemed like decent stuff...

I have used the Marples for years and always recommended them but the last set I got are rubbish, quality really dropped. That bad I started a thread about them..... https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/irwin-marples-chisels-drop-in-quality.144007/

Did you notice what date the video came out.....

Would MDF be an option if they are painted? You could cut them out of MDF in one piece then you wouldn't have any of the problems associated with mitres.

And when you've removed the trap don't pour its contents down the sink that you have just removed it from............ 🙄

Option 3.......... Hand plane, probably cheapest and quickest method if you have one? If you do go for a router bit a round over would be more useful for future projects.

Iroko can initially be a yellow colour but can darken to a deep brown in what seems like a matter of weeks.

@Sgian Dubh cutting worktop joints is a bit of an exception to the rule, the instructions/advice is generally to always work in the same direction to avoid chipping the front edge of the worktop. You take off most of the waste with climb cuts then just make one cut in the proper direction...

Some photos while I'm having my lunch Square peg in a round hole 🤫 when just used for location. Oversize sometimes useful A few leftover pieces, always handy for when you only need 1 or 2 dominos for a job.