Search results

That’s a very nice design, and well done on the tambour door don’t see enough of those. Would just mention (and only did as you said you are a newby) that unless you had a block of wood under when you were planing over the vice, that the bit of wood would flex making it very difficult to plane...

Well that got me looking and no visible nails, I wondered if it was done as a floating floor- unlikely, perhaps it’s just to stop any gaps opening up where they join end to end but presumably it’s nailed through the tongues so that’s unlikely to happen. Basically anybody’s guess. Ian

I’m not an engineer so this is only an idea, would it be possible to put the 80mm long piece in a "shoe" on a faceplate and turn the holes on a lathe? Once set up the cutter wouldn’t need to be altered maybe. Ian

Having read your other wip all I can say is wow!

Brill, heard of them but know zilch about how they work, anything powered by hot air would be good for Government and all the other - sorry getting dangerous.

He wants to cut the black off, then cut the remainder in half to cover twice the area. Doable but a complete pita in my opinion.

It’s a shame you’ve already bought the ends, I would suggest that pipe cramps ( or clamps if you are Americanised) are a pain and you would do better with Record type Sash Cramps, they are regularly up for sale on Marketplace etc, probably work out cheaper in the end as well. Ian

The problem you face is lumps of bitumen on the sides – they only have to be very small to make sawing difficult and potentially dangerous, you will have to make a shoe that the bits of parquet fit into - holding the bitumen side then two cuts to get the bits you want. To be honest this isn’t a...

First, welcome! That’s quite a task you’ve set yourselves, but I hope you aren’t set on 22mm thick as after cutting and sanding you will be lucky to get 19mm which is why your friend was correct to suggest a bandsaw which will take less wood than a table saw blade would. Are they covered in...

It certainly does help Paul! Thanks hugely. Ian

Yes you’re correct no binding agent the lignin in the wood melts under the pressure and sets as it cools, from the ones I burn the travel after compression is about an inch, ie the sawdust etc compresses to an inch thick. Also it looks as though the pushing plate has 4 pointed dimples on it...

Wouldn’t be the end of the world to use an ordinary nut, have a box spanner with Tommy bar kept next to it. Now what the thread is? Anybody’s guess. Ian

Nice, all looks like a good well lit space to work in.

Ah, yes, I was thinking about if you sanded it all and then wanted to stain the dark ones. Good idea from Richard re finding a matching piece of wood.

Yes that’s as expected. Try them on scrap wood first and it may help you decide which to use for your situation. Ian

I was thinking more about the stain bleeding into the pale wood next to it actually. How thick are the squares, they look a bit like thick veneer? And what is the base underneath? early plywood? Interesting that the grain goes one way for the dark and the other way for the light squares, I’ve...

Thanks, I also have an ML8, it mentions adjusting the headstock, which possibly could save me replacing the bearings - it’s started to show a little movement and chatter in use. Anyone have any idea how this adjustment is done please? Ian

Thanks! Yes I agree particularly about kickback and puts much less strain and heat on the blade, also I suppose they might have been thinking about the amount of sawdust released, but with a decent extraction system that's not a problem .

I came across vermiculite when a new stove was being fitted, about three 1 ton builders bags full cascading down into the room! The stove fitter said it has gone out of use mainly nowadays. Ian

The lighter squares look to be either a fruit wood or maybe Sycamore, they look to have darkened/yellowed considerably with age and sunlight. From an antique point of view probably best left alone but if it were mine I would carefully sand it down to show the true original colours, only then...