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Despite what I said above, I also am setting up shop here in the States, nothing as well insulated here so it’s an airtight tool cupboard with a gun cabinet heater in it, a 12” long tube which uses a tiny amount of electricity to keep rust at bay. Ian

It’s the way my workshop has been kept rust free for years, my 15 x45’ one has one oil filled radiator which is set to come on at anything below about 12 c, it obviously depends on the level of insulation and draughts, but it doesn’t have to work very hard or often to maintain this base level. Ian

Oh I hadn’t realised they were only 100mm long, that would explain it, I certainly wouldn’t go any more than the 200.

It certainly did! Thank you for the master class. Ian

If you do go down the route of making the shelves in two parts I would recommend making them as torsion boxes, the weight of things on those shelves over that length could/will cause problems. Torsion box shelves won’t take much longer than two bits of solid wood, and you can make them from...

L Now that bit about metamerism (I do like a new word thank you) could explain why the turquoise bit I stained was impossible to take a pic of, I could see the colour but my phone thought it was something else entirely. Ian

Looks great, yes pls on wip.

I’m not a metalworker but still found it very interesting, thank you for the wip. Ian

Don’t know if these are available in the States (EDIT yes they are, Mixol dye) but they are brill, a few drops of the dye in water based poly varnish and off you go. I mixed up a wonderful turquoise once, I mainly wanted it for the black, made in Germany btw.

Two well experienced voices there, I made all the mistakes known when I started, it does depend on the method of making, if it’s in the style of Ikea, faced chipboard it will be quicker to make, starting with rough sawn wood followed by hand cut Dovetails it’s going to be a piece of a different...

There was a thread on here that featured a video of an American boatbuilder who steam bent using plastic bags, very long home made ones successfully. It was worth watching and he made it look very easy. All bending for parts of furniture I have produced is laminated. My only advice on bending...

You hopefully will be ok, just thought I ought to mention it. Enjoy your new workshop, the exciting time is fitting it all out. Cameras?

Yes, fraid so

I know a SawStop works extremely fast but I wonder if in some circumstances ( for instance if your hand is being pushed very fast in a kickback accident ) whether you could still get a deep wound or even lose a finger as the blade slows and descends, after all it doesn’t start it’s sequence till...

Just a slight concern that you might get flex/movement between the edges of the ply flooring as it hasn’t got a t&g edge and doesn’t finish over a joist, I know it’s over celotex but it could deflect with equipment on it. Probably easiest to fix afterwards now if there’s a problem by laying...

Here you go, this is from a large thread that I did on push sticks. Ian

I also have done some restoration of Errol pieces over the years, if only repairing a part one way to get the colour the same as the original around the repair is to use French polish-Button colour. It’s that exact shade of dirty yellow. Ian

Worth a trip to B&Q last lot of sandstone slabs had some beautiful ferns right there on the surface, you could put one in a picture frame Ian

Very welcome, I’m sure you’ll fit right in.

WBP plywood just isn’t what it says on the label anymore, most of it will not survive the conditions mentioned. I would either go down the plastic route- preferred, or Marine, the last Marine I used was really good stuff, BUT ymmv. Ian