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Could be to save annoying the neighbour, it’s quite close really, I’m sure it’s legal but I’m not sure I would have liked it next to me. But it looks to be a lovely setting, and I hope you thoroughly enjoy working in it.

Yes mitres on corners went out a long time ago, they are nearly all scribed now. Good advice from Blingman, to not start to glue to the wall till all are looking good and levelled out, but sometimes you can only do the best you can with what the builder has left you. Ian

Haha, very good. from reviews from Americans I think the American woodwork machine manufacturers have shot themselves in the foot by diluting quality and cost cutting. It seems that the only good machines are old ones. Also companies like SCM who do top quality machines like Minimax's are...

Glad to hear it, and if they do go through the hinges route, another good easy thing to do is jamb bolts, screw in coach screws at a slight angle into the door frame cut the heads off, close the door to mark the positions then drill the edge of the door. Trouble nowadays is battery powered...

You could do a lot worse than a Myford ML8, different length beds, outside bowl turning so you won’t be restricted by the bed, and the motor you can change easily enough as any motor can be bolted (using U bolts/straps) to the separate motor plate underneath. And they come up fairly regularly in...

Thank you for that, I wasn’t aware Sedgwick equipment was available in Canada, I looked in the States but was disappointed. Does Canada use the same electric as the States? I have Sedgwick equipment here in England and everything you say about it is spot on. There just isn’t the semi...

I can recommend an SMC Minimax planer thicknesser, it sounds as though you have a lot of timber to process and will need at least a semi professional machine. I’ve had mine for 15 years and it’s been faultless, with hundreds of Oak boards passed across and through it. Mine has Tersa blades and...

Whenever I go to London and surrounds I feel so very glad I don’t have to live there. Nightmare of a place. It’s surprising how many evacuees from down South there are even in my sleepy little village.

I think you’re correct, can’t remember the figures but I was shocked at how much a pair of sashes and frame in accoya was, it was a good few thousand. Recommendation is the best way with this sort of thing. Lucky escape by the look of it. Ian

Well whichever, do make sure you bolt all parts though the door and frame. So easy just to unscrew otherwise. Ian

I think the problem is that you (and most) are decent normal older(?) people. We are the same people who answer the phone when it rings and reply to emails etc. After trying to sell some bits on Marketplace I came to the conclusion that there’s an awful lot of people who have too much time on...

Well what I do know is that such stuff is expensive and often thin, I’m sure you have researched it but when I built my studio monitors the idea was solid and sound absorbing, and stuffed full of wool. Things may have changed, it was a while ago.

Just occurred to me, are you planing the edges and gluing or are you going pub table with gaps? Nicely put Tom. My Son recently covered his bedroom wall with s/planks then built a wardrobe against it. Wouldn’t do for all of us to be the same would it!

I’m impressed, the last time I did this was a very log time ago, melted lead on the stove, into a mould and out popped a little Spitfire airplane. Probably not a very safe thing to do with lead but people either didn’t know or didn’t care back then.

Maybe, but I was thinking could you use screws? Those lost head flooring ones for instance. Ian

If that works great, if not that’s an expensive gamble.

Welcome Mandy, I interested in what you do as I thought all the stuff for DT Tech had gone the way of all things. Ian

All I’ve ever done is a wiggly line of glue put the two bits together and slide about a bit, in effect it’s a rub joint. Ian

Shame, but it’s all experience. Wild idea, next time glue a piece of ply to the other side as well to form a box then hope it’s done it’s job and after a while cut the scrap ply off. Please note I am not guaranteeing this at all! Ian

Beaten to it but I’m glad an expert agrees! That’s not good! But you already knew that haha, all I can think of is to remove the tenon and then cut back into the rail a couple of inches, this will allow a loose tenon to be glued in, and then pegged as previously. There is a great deal of force...